Iceland Christmas 21
Finally, and after two years, back on the road. Our destination: Iceland. I first visited 35 years ago and was taken by its otherworldly charm and eccentricity. A nation that still has a tradition of following the old Norse gods, believes in Fairy and has recently had to divert roads away from a rebellious elf population. Walk in the country and you too can soon become a believer. Be aware the trolls can be even more difficult.
In the current days of Covid, arrival into Iceland is quite straightforward. Firstly, there’s Icelandic Immigration to deal with. Amazingly, those of us accursed to live on plague island are welcome. Details here: a simple question and answer session that will give you all the answers you need. In our case we needed proof of a negative lateral flow test within 72 hours of arrival and the full course of vaccinations. We used Sussex Travel Clinic here in Worthing, which is reliable and friendly (£45 per person). Next you have to register your arrival 48 hours prior to landing and are given an acknowledgment for the border staff.
On arrival there are three procedures: passport as usual, checking your arrival registration, and finally full checks on vaccinations and your Covid test certificate. All quickly but thoroughly dealt with. After that - welcome to Iceland.
The International Airport is actually located at Keflavik, a 45 minute drive away. Now a modern international facility, it was a fully functioning US army base when I last visited (having to pass through a military check point to exit, but not without stopping to pick up as much duty free beer as we could carry. In ‘83 beer was illegal in Iceland). There is a smaller domestic airport in the city itself.
We booked ourselves into Hotel Ranga for three nights, a two hour drive east from the airport. The weather was initially sleeting and icy and frankly rather bleak until we hit the snow line east of the airport, when the world transformed into pure Christmas magic. The Ranga is a four star luxury hotel designed along the style of a Swiss ski lodge, offering gourmet dining experiences and, uniquely, its own observatory, open on clear nights.
A famous spot for Aurora watchers, though clear nights are never guaranteed. We did see a small display fleetingly (KP2). You would need more something in the region of a KP4 for a really special showing. Inevitably, on the night there was significant activity we were in a snow storm in Reykjavik. (See notes on the bottom of this article for more details.)
We bought an inclusive half board gourmet package, and were upgraded to their 13 course Christmas menu on our visit. Food was of course very high quality with a wide variety of tasty local dishes, the best value being fish - salmon and cod being the most popular.
Activity wise, you do need a car to get anywhere from The Ranga, though concierge can hook you up with some comprehensive tours from the hotel’s front door. We took a full day tour to Thórsmörk (Thor’s wood) with www.southadventure.is The tour was a shared experience in a super-jeep, with an excellent guide who also was a local rescue volunteer and has her own rustic lodge business aimed at the hiking market.
We followed the F249 along the route of the Krossa river, visiting the Eyjafjallajökull en route - the volcano which was responsible for 2010 eruption which disrupted flights across Europe. The road ceased as we approached the river - which the vehicle drives through! An exciting feat in the middle of winter. Thus the route is not accessible by a regular car or SUV, though people still try. (There is a unit on standby to effect rescues, and charge the hapless incompetent accordingly.)
The itinerary included a hike over a local mountain, or around it for the less daring. Ros and I took the less challenging route around the mountain, and found ourselves on our own in the most beautiful of surroundings. The path was very well marked, and took around 90 minutes to complete, taking in some stunning views on the way.
En route, we were also lucky to see a glitsky display, a rare local atmospheric phenomenon where clouds show a spectrum of colour like pools of oil in the sky. It was the first time it had been observed locally for a couple of years and added to the otherworldliness of the whole adventure. The day felt as if we had been transported to another planet - indeed the area is often used for filming as such.
Back in Reykjavik, the snow had arrived and transformed the old city into a perfect picture postcard Christmas scene with its pretty timber houses and colourful decorations. It’s a compact town for sightseeing with no more than half an hour’s walk between the Hallgrímskirkja (the dramatic church which dominates the skyline) and the harbour.
The best views of the church can be obtained by walking up Skólavörðustígur which is the bohemian part of town, offering little cafes and coffee bars and some unique shopping - including the legendry record store 12 Tonar. The bars in this are under half the price of those in the city west of the main street Laekjargata.
We stayed at Thingholt by Centre, between the old town and Skólavörðustígur good value for its central location.Rooms were well-equipped, but the welcoming lobby was let down by an unexciting bar out the back (unstaffed) and bare restaurant which only seemed to be used for breakfast (average). Next time, for value, I would go back to a bed and breakfast arrangement. (Treasure looked lovely as we passed and is centrally located.)
Food costs are approximately double what you would expect to pay in the UK; plenty of street food choices for those on a budget but for a splurge the Matarkjallarinn was a gem. A cellar restaurant with some unique fish presentations, a dry sense of humour which seemed to infect all of the staff, and a piano player tinkering along with classic Christmas carols one minute and a very quirky version of Radiohead’s Creep the next. Book in advance or be at the mercy of the maitre ’d. We managed to pass muster for the naughty boy table in the corner!
Nightlife in Covid times dictated a 10pm close, so it was difficult to gauge the bar life. Still, considering there were no bars 35 years ago, and very little inexpensive food other than soups, it’s a vast improvement. On my first visit, I was living off Pot Noodles and energy bars until I found a local place frequented by the working fishermen down on the harbour front. It’s gone now, replaced by a whole series of restaurants, which must thrive in the summer.
Ros wanted to try one of the many thermal pool experiences and we plumped for The Sky Lagoon, just outside the city centre, situated in an industrial estate. It’s quite a walk from the bus stop so best get a taxi (around £20 one way). I am very nervous about these places since childhood (changing rooms were a great place to ger beaten up at school - and that was just the teachers!) On arrival, the gentle caress of Air’s Moon Safari greeted me and it was a chill out experience thereafter. You emerge into a heated pool surrounded by mist and rock until greeted with a sweeping view of the harbour with the snow-capped mountains in the background. Stay for as long as you like. Bar service in pool if you must.
We did the most popular tour from the city (the Golden Circle) featuring the site of the old parliament and the meeting point of the North American and European tectonic plates, a geyser and Gullfoss, a mighty waterfall. All very dramatic in the snow. Your friend in Reykjavik is an excellent online resource as well as providing guides for the quirkier side of the City. We booked a private folklore walking tour one afternoon and were regaled with myths of the weird and wonderful by our costumed guide who looked as if had escaped from one the tales.
With the curfew there was no chance of seeing any live music, which was a shame as Iceland has a legendary scene which has launched Bjork, Sigar Rós, Jóhann Jóhannson, Ásgeir and Monsters and Men on the world. Damon Albarn and John Grant have also taken up residence.
The Grapevine is a great source of local information: music and gig updates, video guides to the some more mystical side of Iceland. A paper copy can be found in some bars as well as on line.
An uneventful BA flight bought us home into further Covid adventures. The government changed its guidance with no notice to requiring a full certified PCR test rather than a lateral flow (which we’d already bought and paid for). Thus we found ourselves in home quarantine without suitable testing equipment. No advice on the relevant websites. A late night call to the FCO (staffed late at night - thank you!) advised us to drive to our nearest drive in test centre 50 miles away in Eastleigh, Hampshire. A three hour return journey and another £140 later, we subsequently quarantined at home (mercifully) for the 48 hours prior to release.
Iceland was a truly magical destination to which Ros already wishes to return. However, no more continental travel until this is behind us, or until there is professional and consistent advice from our ‘leaders’. We won’t hold our breath. My main resource was the Moon Guide to Iceland, I do find their guides can find more out of the way places than the mainstream guide books.
Notes: Explaining the Aurora.
In a nutshell, you need a clear, moonless sky along with some degree of solar storm. These storms are measured by a KP factor. KP2 and some chance of seeing something, KP4 and your chances of a good display are high. KP6 may be visible from Scotland. It would take a KP9 (almost unknown) to view from the South of England.
If you are Aurora hunting, book a north facing room with as big a window as you can. A good SLR camara with tripod and light merino wool gloves to operate outdoors in temperatures of -10C, if you want to get great photos.
https://www.gi.alaska.edu/monitors/aurora-forecast
New: Iceland gallery link (via Smugmug under test)
In the current days of Covid, arrival into Iceland is quite straightforward. Firstly, there’s Icelandic Immigration to deal with. Amazingly, those of us accursed to live on plague island are welcome. Details here: a simple question and answer session that will give you all the answers you need. In our case we needed proof of a negative lateral flow test within 72 hours of arrival and the full course of vaccinations. We used Sussex Travel Clinic here in Worthing, which is reliable and friendly (£45 per person). Next you have to register your arrival 48 hours prior to landing and are given an acknowledgment for the border staff.
On arrival there are three procedures: passport as usual, checking your arrival registration, and finally full checks on vaccinations and your Covid test certificate. All quickly but thoroughly dealt with. After that - welcome to Iceland.
The International Airport is actually located at Keflavik, a 45 minute drive away. Now a modern international facility, it was a fully functioning US army base when I last visited (having to pass through a military check point to exit, but not without stopping to pick up as much duty free beer as we could carry. In ‘83 beer was illegal in Iceland). There is a smaller domestic airport in the city itself.
We booked ourselves into Hotel Ranga for three nights, a two hour drive east from the airport. The weather was initially sleeting and icy and frankly rather bleak until we hit the snow line east of the airport, when the world transformed into pure Christmas magic. The Ranga is a four star luxury hotel designed along the style of a Swiss ski lodge, offering gourmet dining experiences and, uniquely, its own observatory, open on clear nights.
A famous spot for Aurora watchers, though clear nights are never guaranteed. We did see a small display fleetingly (KP2). You would need more something in the region of a KP4 for a really special showing. Inevitably, on the night there was significant activity we were in a snow storm in Reykjavik. (See notes on the bottom of this article for more details.)
We bought an inclusive half board gourmet package, and were upgraded to their 13 course Christmas menu on our visit. Food was of course very high quality with a wide variety of tasty local dishes, the best value being fish - salmon and cod being the most popular.
Activity wise, you do need a car to get anywhere from The Ranga, though concierge can hook you up with some comprehensive tours from the hotel’s front door. We took a full day tour to Thórsmörk (Thor’s wood) with www.southadventure.is The tour was a shared experience in a super-jeep, with an excellent guide who also was a local rescue volunteer and has her own rustic lodge business aimed at the hiking market.
We followed the F249 along the route of the Krossa river, visiting the Eyjafjallajökull en route - the volcano which was responsible for 2010 eruption which disrupted flights across Europe. The road ceased as we approached the river - which the vehicle drives through! An exciting feat in the middle of winter. Thus the route is not accessible by a regular car or SUV, though people still try. (There is a unit on standby to effect rescues, and charge the hapless incompetent accordingly.)
The itinerary included a hike over a local mountain, or around it for the less daring. Ros and I took the less challenging route around the mountain, and found ourselves on our own in the most beautiful of surroundings. The path was very well marked, and took around 90 minutes to complete, taking in some stunning views on the way.
En route, we were also lucky to see a glitsky display, a rare local atmospheric phenomenon where clouds show a spectrum of colour like pools of oil in the sky. It was the first time it had been observed locally for a couple of years and added to the otherworldliness of the whole adventure. The day felt as if we had been transported to another planet - indeed the area is often used for filming as such.
Back in Reykjavik, the snow had arrived and transformed the old city into a perfect picture postcard Christmas scene with its pretty timber houses and colourful decorations. It’s a compact town for sightseeing with no more than half an hour’s walk between the Hallgrímskirkja (the dramatic church which dominates the skyline) and the harbour.
The best views of the church can be obtained by walking up Skólavörðustígur which is the bohemian part of town, offering little cafes and coffee bars and some unique shopping - including the legendry record store 12 Tonar. The bars in this are under half the price of those in the city west of the main street Laekjargata.
We stayed at Thingholt by Centre, between the old town and Skólavörðustígur good value for its central location.Rooms were well-equipped, but the welcoming lobby was let down by an unexciting bar out the back (unstaffed) and bare restaurant which only seemed to be used for breakfast (average). Next time, for value, I would go back to a bed and breakfast arrangement. (Treasure looked lovely as we passed and is centrally located.)
Food costs are approximately double what you would expect to pay in the UK; plenty of street food choices for those on a budget but for a splurge the Matarkjallarinn was a gem. A cellar restaurant with some unique fish presentations, a dry sense of humour which seemed to infect all of the staff, and a piano player tinkering along with classic Christmas carols one minute and a very quirky version of Radiohead’s Creep the next. Book in advance or be at the mercy of the maitre ’d. We managed to pass muster for the naughty boy table in the corner!
Nightlife in Covid times dictated a 10pm close, so it was difficult to gauge the bar life. Still, considering there were no bars 35 years ago, and very little inexpensive food other than soups, it’s a vast improvement. On my first visit, I was living off Pot Noodles and energy bars until I found a local place frequented by the working fishermen down on the harbour front. It’s gone now, replaced by a whole series of restaurants, which must thrive in the summer.
Ros wanted to try one of the many thermal pool experiences and we plumped for The Sky Lagoon, just outside the city centre, situated in an industrial estate. It’s quite a walk from the bus stop so best get a taxi (around £20 one way). I am very nervous about these places since childhood (changing rooms were a great place to ger beaten up at school - and that was just the teachers!) On arrival, the gentle caress of Air’s Moon Safari greeted me and it was a chill out experience thereafter. You emerge into a heated pool surrounded by mist and rock until greeted with a sweeping view of the harbour with the snow-capped mountains in the background. Stay for as long as you like. Bar service in pool if you must.
We did the most popular tour from the city (the Golden Circle) featuring the site of the old parliament and the meeting point of the North American and European tectonic plates, a geyser and Gullfoss, a mighty waterfall. All very dramatic in the snow. Your friend in Reykjavik is an excellent online resource as well as providing guides for the quirkier side of the City. We booked a private folklore walking tour one afternoon and were regaled with myths of the weird and wonderful by our costumed guide who looked as if had escaped from one the tales.
With the curfew there was no chance of seeing any live music, which was a shame as Iceland has a legendary scene which has launched Bjork, Sigar Rós, Jóhann Jóhannson, Ásgeir and Monsters and Men on the world. Damon Albarn and John Grant have also taken up residence.
The Grapevine is a great source of local information: music and gig updates, video guides to the some more mystical side of Iceland. A paper copy can be found in some bars as well as on line.
An uneventful BA flight bought us home into further Covid adventures. The government changed its guidance with no notice to requiring a full certified PCR test rather than a lateral flow (which we’d already bought and paid for). Thus we found ourselves in home quarantine without suitable testing equipment. No advice on the relevant websites. A late night call to the FCO (staffed late at night - thank you!) advised us to drive to our nearest drive in test centre 50 miles away in Eastleigh, Hampshire. A three hour return journey and another £140 later, we subsequently quarantined at home (mercifully) for the 48 hours prior to release.
Iceland was a truly magical destination to which Ros already wishes to return. However, no more continental travel until this is behind us, or until there is professional and consistent advice from our ‘leaders’. We won’t hold our breath. My main resource was the Moon Guide to Iceland, I do find their guides can find more out of the way places than the mainstream guide books.
Notes: Explaining the Aurora.
In a nutshell, you need a clear, moonless sky along with some degree of solar storm. These storms are measured by a KP factor. KP2 and some chance of seeing something, KP4 and your chances of a good display are high. KP6 may be visible from Scotland. It would take a KP9 (almost unknown) to view from the South of England.
If you are Aurora hunting, book a north facing room with as big a window as you can. A good SLR camara with tripod and light merino wool gloves to operate outdoors in temperatures of -10C, if you want to get great photos.
https://www.gi.alaska.edu/monitors/aurora-forecast
New: Iceland gallery link (via Smugmug under test)
Didn’t we have a lovely time the day we went to Barmouth!
Yeah, my first trip away since February, and even then we didn’t even leave the country (though the Cornish would tell you otherwise.) Seventh time lucky then, and I’m on the train to Solihull-on-Sea. My first brush with the new rail operator, Avanti West Coast; trains the same, service notably better.
Avanti sent me a ticket with no reservation, not great in the current times. My overnight email resolved the issue, with a response sent at 09.20 the following morning. The train was socially distanced with only the window seats being sold, so loads of legroom for some P and Q. Barmouth is an adventure to get too, via Brum Int, Shrewsbury and Machynlleth. That’s around four hours from Brum, a nine hour run from Worthing. Actually the trains actually were nearly empty with just four in a carriage from Euston. Avanti allowed me a change of train to an earlier service so I didn’t have to worry about an eight minute connection in Shrewsbury. This left me with a chance to look around Shrewsbury Jail, located opposite the station, which is now closed and bizarrely now a tourist attraction.
Onbound to the coast, and the next excitement was the train dividing at Machynlleth. Three differing announcements had the passengers scattering from one carriage to the next in the fear of transportation to Aberystwyth, the home of cult writer Malcolm Pryce and his alternative reality of a town of toffee apple dens, wet donkey fur and illicit raspberry ripples.
It was a lovely sunny evening when I eventually arrived for three nights at the Tilman pub, which has very spacious rooms above the bar and is well maintained. Though currently not doing a food menu, it did provide good, hearty breakfasts. The ever-helpful staff will supply cutlery for food purchased outside, should you wish to eat in the bar. The seafront has a wide choice of chip shops, of varying standards, with outside seating. Somehow, seagulls are absent so you can relax without having the threat of your meal disappearing into the sky towards Wrexham.
The Covid period has led to a number of popular restaurants shutting their doors, hence it’s difficult to get a table in those left in business, (though some will provide a takeout service.) The best of which is Bank-yup, unsurprisingly a former bank now put to good use with excellent food, though perhaps misses out on character. Just the one curry house in town which does its best to cope with demand. In a Welsh town invaded by Brummies, it’s no surprise the lamb balti is rather good.
A few decent pubs: my own Tillman has some nice local brews but the Tal Y Don was a great mix of local and Brum character with its heavy metal juke box and wide open spaces, (important in current times.) Bring your own Villa shirt.
The town itself consists of the old harbour area and the beachfront, which juts out into Cardigan Bay and the mouth of the Mawddach River, giving vast swaths of sandy beaches and dunes boasting some spectacular sunsets. There is a little fairground and tacky amusement arcade, which adds er local character.
So why was I there? To walk the 17km of the Mawddach Trail, a disused railway line accessed along the spectacular rail bridge which forms the entrance to the town. Setting off just after breakfast, with the river on the left, it was difficult to keep up a pace as I had to stop every few minutes to take in the natural beauty of the Welsh Mekong (as I dubbed it) and chat with all of my fellow hikers and cyclists. A late afternoon arrival in the attractive town of Dolgellau and a short and successful quest for a pot of tea and a Victoria sponge completed the hike. An hourly bus runs back to Barmouth.
Next day it was Portmeirion village near Porthmadog, an ornate Italian-themed fantasy village and setting of the 60’s cult classic TV show The Prisoner. Small and compact, you can walk around its extraordinary ornate buildings in an hour, but there are some nice country walks should you wish to stay longer. Admission is £17 for an adult. There are two four-star hotels on site and you can also stay in one of the suites in the heart of the Village. There’s even a spa. https://portmeirion.wales/stay
The area also has a number of independent, small, mostly steam railways - enough to keep a railway fanatic happy for weeks. Note there are only limited services under Covid and you may be asked to buy a whole compartment of four seats.
Harlech Castle is also just 20 minutes on the train or by bus from Barmouth town.
Luxury accommodation exists at Coes Faen Lodge (https://coesfaen.co.uk/), around a mile from Barmouth on the river itself. This would twin nicely with a stay at Ynyshir (https://ynyshir.co.uk/) a Michelin Star restaurant with rooms one hour away en route to Aberystwyth.
So there you have a compact little road trip which makes a striking alternative to Cornwall and Scotland.
Avanti sent me a ticket with no reservation, not great in the current times. My overnight email resolved the issue, with a response sent at 09.20 the following morning. The train was socially distanced with only the window seats being sold, so loads of legroom for some P and Q. Barmouth is an adventure to get too, via Brum Int, Shrewsbury and Machynlleth. That’s around four hours from Brum, a nine hour run from Worthing. Actually the trains actually were nearly empty with just four in a carriage from Euston. Avanti allowed me a change of train to an earlier service so I didn’t have to worry about an eight minute connection in Shrewsbury. This left me with a chance to look around Shrewsbury Jail, located opposite the station, which is now closed and bizarrely now a tourist attraction.
Onbound to the coast, and the next excitement was the train dividing at Machynlleth. Three differing announcements had the passengers scattering from one carriage to the next in the fear of transportation to Aberystwyth, the home of cult writer Malcolm Pryce and his alternative reality of a town of toffee apple dens, wet donkey fur and illicit raspberry ripples.
It was a lovely sunny evening when I eventually arrived for three nights at the Tilman pub, which has very spacious rooms above the bar and is well maintained. Though currently not doing a food menu, it did provide good, hearty breakfasts. The ever-helpful staff will supply cutlery for food purchased outside, should you wish to eat in the bar. The seafront has a wide choice of chip shops, of varying standards, with outside seating. Somehow, seagulls are absent so you can relax without having the threat of your meal disappearing into the sky towards Wrexham.
The Covid period has led to a number of popular restaurants shutting their doors, hence it’s difficult to get a table in those left in business, (though some will provide a takeout service.) The best of which is Bank-yup, unsurprisingly a former bank now put to good use with excellent food, though perhaps misses out on character. Just the one curry house in town which does its best to cope with demand. In a Welsh town invaded by Brummies, it’s no surprise the lamb balti is rather good.
A few decent pubs: my own Tillman has some nice local brews but the Tal Y Don was a great mix of local and Brum character with its heavy metal juke box and wide open spaces, (important in current times.) Bring your own Villa shirt.
The town itself consists of the old harbour area and the beachfront, which juts out into Cardigan Bay and the mouth of the Mawddach River, giving vast swaths of sandy beaches and dunes boasting some spectacular sunsets. There is a little fairground and tacky amusement arcade, which adds er local character.
So why was I there? To walk the 17km of the Mawddach Trail, a disused railway line accessed along the spectacular rail bridge which forms the entrance to the town. Setting off just after breakfast, with the river on the left, it was difficult to keep up a pace as I had to stop every few minutes to take in the natural beauty of the Welsh Mekong (as I dubbed it) and chat with all of my fellow hikers and cyclists. A late afternoon arrival in the attractive town of Dolgellau and a short and successful quest for a pot of tea and a Victoria sponge completed the hike. An hourly bus runs back to Barmouth.
Next day it was Portmeirion village near Porthmadog, an ornate Italian-themed fantasy village and setting of the 60’s cult classic TV show The Prisoner. Small and compact, you can walk around its extraordinary ornate buildings in an hour, but there are some nice country walks should you wish to stay longer. Admission is £17 for an adult. There are two four-star hotels on site and you can also stay in one of the suites in the heart of the Village. There’s even a spa. https://portmeirion.wales/stay
The area also has a number of independent, small, mostly steam railways - enough to keep a railway fanatic happy for weeks. Note there are only limited services under Covid and you may be asked to buy a whole compartment of four seats.
Harlech Castle is also just 20 minutes on the train or by bus from Barmouth town.
Luxury accommodation exists at Coes Faen Lodge (https://coesfaen.co.uk/), around a mile from Barmouth on the river itself. This would twin nicely with a stay at Ynyshir (https://ynyshir.co.uk/) a Michelin Star restaurant with rooms one hour away en route to Aberystwyth.
So there you have a compact little road trip which makes a striking alternative to Cornwall and Scotland.
Zanzibar
Stonetown
The old town consists of a labyrinth of ramshackled streets and alleys running down to the ocean on one side and a busy main road on the other. It's run down, chaotic and utterly delicious. It’s easy to get lost so take a compass (west to the sea, east to the main road) or you can go around in circles for ever, reappearing where you were an hour ago. After a while, you begin to recognise landmarks and it gets much easier.
Despite warnings on the net, I found it perfectly safe in the daytime. But take a reasonable amount of caution in the evening. You will get hassled for tours on the seafront and around the House of Wonders, (so called as it was the first house in Stonetown to have electric lighting, now undergoing significant repair and looking like a set from a Hammer Horror film). After a few days you become familiar and the hustlers move on to easier targets.
The haunting call to prayer echoes forth from the Kiponda area, where your presence will excite the children, who will come over in traditional dress and fistbump whilst trying out their basic English. Late one night, a couple of kids invited me to meet their father who was sat in their doorway. I soon found myself sitting with the whole family and answering questions about life in the West.
I stayed at Jafferji House, right in the heart of Stonetown by the Old Fort. It’s a lovely old building with suites on four levels and amazing views from the rooftop restaurant over the Fort and House of Wonders. The hotel is full of character and thoughtfully furnished in local style. Pricing here is very reasonable. They can organise tours of the area - essential on the first day, to get your bearings and learn enough of the local language to effectively wrangle the optimistic street traders.
Some examples
Hapana asante: No thanks
Jambo: Hello
Hakuna matata: No worries
Samahani: Excuse me
Gan langu linaloanangama limejaa na mikunga: My hovercraft is full of eels.
Get to meet the locals over a coffee at Jaws Corner, and find yourself chatting to those traders you rebuffed a few days ago, who now have your name or worse, the nickname they've made up for you. It's the local gathering place for gentlemen to debate and gossip. Sorry ladies, it's a cultural thing.
Other accommodation options of note are the classical Park Hyatt, which has again found a historic building and converted it into a very nice five star with ocean frontage. Emerson Spice, back in the heart of the old town, has some gloriously spacious rooms, again decorated in a dramatic local style and, unusually, balconies over the city. The restaurant has a five course tasting menu and those dramatic sunset views.
Any of the guides will discuss the dark history of the town and its connection to the slave trade before escorting you to the site of the Old Slave Market and its museum. This displays an intense history of the trade including slavery in current times.
The island is a chequered mix of Arab (Omani), Portuguese, Indian and African influences due to its geographical position and history, which has attracted settlers since man learned to sail. This is a place where Islamic and Christian cultures coexist comfortably. Part of Tanzania since 1964, Zanzibar dreams of becoming independent once again.
Onwards to the beach, and I choose The Zuri for the chill sector, located right at the top of the island a two hour drive from Stonetown. See agents page for a resort review.
The old town consists of a labyrinth of ramshackled streets and alleys running down to the ocean on one side and a busy main road on the other. It's run down, chaotic and utterly delicious. It’s easy to get lost so take a compass (west to the sea, east to the main road) or you can go around in circles for ever, reappearing where you were an hour ago. After a while, you begin to recognise landmarks and it gets much easier.
Despite warnings on the net, I found it perfectly safe in the daytime. But take a reasonable amount of caution in the evening. You will get hassled for tours on the seafront and around the House of Wonders, (so called as it was the first house in Stonetown to have electric lighting, now undergoing significant repair and looking like a set from a Hammer Horror film). After a few days you become familiar and the hustlers move on to easier targets.
The haunting call to prayer echoes forth from the Kiponda area, where your presence will excite the children, who will come over in traditional dress and fistbump whilst trying out their basic English. Late one night, a couple of kids invited me to meet their father who was sat in their doorway. I soon found myself sitting with the whole family and answering questions about life in the West.
I stayed at Jafferji House, right in the heart of Stonetown by the Old Fort. It’s a lovely old building with suites on four levels and amazing views from the rooftop restaurant over the Fort and House of Wonders. The hotel is full of character and thoughtfully furnished in local style. Pricing here is very reasonable. They can organise tours of the area - essential on the first day, to get your bearings and learn enough of the local language to effectively wrangle the optimistic street traders.
Some examples
Hapana asante: No thanks
Jambo: Hello
Hakuna matata: No worries
Samahani: Excuse me
Gan langu linaloanangama limejaa na mikunga: My hovercraft is full of eels.
Get to meet the locals over a coffee at Jaws Corner, and find yourself chatting to those traders you rebuffed a few days ago, who now have your name or worse, the nickname they've made up for you. It's the local gathering place for gentlemen to debate and gossip. Sorry ladies, it's a cultural thing.
Other accommodation options of note are the classical Park Hyatt, which has again found a historic building and converted it into a very nice five star with ocean frontage. Emerson Spice, back in the heart of the old town, has some gloriously spacious rooms, again decorated in a dramatic local style and, unusually, balconies over the city. The restaurant has a five course tasting menu and those dramatic sunset views.
Any of the guides will discuss the dark history of the town and its connection to the slave trade before escorting you to the site of the Old Slave Market and its museum. This displays an intense history of the trade including slavery in current times.
The island is a chequered mix of Arab (Omani), Portuguese, Indian and African influences due to its geographical position and history, which has attracted settlers since man learned to sail. This is a place where Islamic and Christian cultures coexist comfortably. Part of Tanzania since 1964, Zanzibar dreams of becoming independent once again.
Onwards to the beach, and I choose The Zuri for the chill sector, located right at the top of the island a two hour drive from Stonetown. See agents page for a resort review.
Zanzibar Tapas
Muzunga
The Kiswahili term for white people. It translates as man who swallows his farts. When the first European explorers rocked up wearing trousers the locals could not figure out how the gas could possibly get out. This is the word which will precede you as you approach the market traders, just before the price quadruples.
The Kiswahili term for white people. It translates as man who swallows his farts. When the first European explorers rocked up wearing trousers the locals could not figure out how the gas could possibly get out. This is the word which will precede you as you approach the market traders, just before the price quadruples.
Johnny English-Street Life
(Hey Brighton and Hove)
The first call comes up, 'Where are you from?'
'Brighton' I reply.
'Oh yes,' he says, 'Brighton & Hove, yes?'
'Yup' I reply.
'You were shit last year! This year much better.'
* * *
''Can I help you sir? Where are you going? Tour tomorrow? Prisoners Island? No? A girl maybe?'
'Cheers bud, no; just looking for a bar,
And in fairness my guide takes me through the maze of streets just to where I want. £1 fee well earned.
I negotiate three flights of stairs to the whiskey bar and need a bloody beer after the exercise. Slumped at the bar I am pleased to find it's a local scene, just as the warm breath hits my earlobe.
'Hi, I’m Tina' she says. Tina is well dressed and attractive. I focus as she starts playing with my earring.
I ask her (let’s play here) what she does for a living. Disappointingly, she is straight in.
'I am a masseur; you want a massage?' I politely explain I'm not in the game, so to speak. No offence is taken and I reward her cheek by paying for her G&T.
'You have nice hair.' (Well that’s a first!) 'Nice body.' I explode with laughter, Fistbumps and away, I check I'm not followed.
My recent guide is downstairs and waiting, eyebrows raised. 'You should not be carrying a bag; people think you have a camera in there.' (I do - it’s kind of crappy and in need of replacement.) 'I see you home.' Another £1 well invested.
* * *
Roll forward to night two. I find a pleasant beach bar. Captain Stupid sits at the bar for thirty seconds, when I feel a tug on my earring.
'Hi, I'm Wednesday.' (Sorry couldn’t be arsed to even remember.) 'You have nice hair.' She orders a fruit juice; cheap date, I think. I politely go though the decline process, again no offence taken. 'You have nice body.' Gotta say, finishing school here isn’t missing any tricks. I abandon any idea of eating here and scurry to the excellent curry house opposite.
Two hours later, I'm walking home when a shout comes up.
‘Hey, Johnny!' shouts Wednesday, who appears to be standing on top of a local taxi.
'Jambo' I reply.
(Hey Brighton and Hove)
The first call comes up, 'Where are you from?'
'Brighton' I reply.
'Oh yes,' he says, 'Brighton & Hove, yes?'
'Yup' I reply.
'You were shit last year! This year much better.'
* * *
''Can I help you sir? Where are you going? Tour tomorrow? Prisoners Island? No? A girl maybe?'
'Cheers bud, no; just looking for a bar,
And in fairness my guide takes me through the maze of streets just to where I want. £1 fee well earned.
I negotiate three flights of stairs to the whiskey bar and need a bloody beer after the exercise. Slumped at the bar I am pleased to find it's a local scene, just as the warm breath hits my earlobe.
'Hi, I’m Tina' she says. Tina is well dressed and attractive. I focus as she starts playing with my earring.
I ask her (let’s play here) what she does for a living. Disappointingly, she is straight in.
'I am a masseur; you want a massage?' I politely explain I'm not in the game, so to speak. No offence is taken and I reward her cheek by paying for her G&T.
'You have nice hair.' (Well that’s a first!) 'Nice body.' I explode with laughter, Fistbumps and away, I check I'm not followed.
My recent guide is downstairs and waiting, eyebrows raised. 'You should not be carrying a bag; people think you have a camera in there.' (I do - it’s kind of crappy and in need of replacement.) 'I see you home.' Another £1 well invested.
* * *
Roll forward to night two. I find a pleasant beach bar. Captain Stupid sits at the bar for thirty seconds, when I feel a tug on my earring.
'Hi, I'm Wednesday.' (Sorry couldn’t be arsed to even remember.) 'You have nice hair.' She orders a fruit juice; cheap date, I think. I politely go though the decline process, again no offence taken. 'You have nice body.' Gotta say, finishing school here isn’t missing any tricks. I abandon any idea of eating here and scurry to the excellent curry house opposite.
Two hours later, I'm walking home when a shout comes up.
‘Hey, Johnny!' shouts Wednesday, who appears to be standing on top of a local taxi.
'Jambo' I reply.
The Loud Blogger
'Saturday 26th,' she announces in a broad West Coast American accent. To no-one. She then continues on what is apparently her blog, except she has decided to dictate it to her iPhone instead of typing it quietly in the naughty corner, as i am doing now. We all hear about her day for ten minutes; she is apparently volunteering with an NGO. Reminds me of where I was a decade ago - can it really be that long? The band in the corner strike up badly: 'Take Me Home, Country Roads.' The bar empties. I settle down to a Steinbeck classic. The band cease.
'Sunday 27th.' I loose my place and order another drink. I note the bar is now empty as the musicians wonder what to do next. The mossies start to make an impact. The band strike up unexpectedly to the missing hordes. Perhaps I could put in a request - some black metal perhaps? There's no-one here but they're doing their best. Then blessed silence at last. i devour another two pages.
'Monday 28th.'
It's Thursday. I call the bill.
'Saturday 26th,' she announces in a broad West Coast American accent. To no-one. She then continues on what is apparently her blog, except she has decided to dictate it to her iPhone instead of typing it quietly in the naughty corner, as i am doing now. We all hear about her day for ten minutes; she is apparently volunteering with an NGO. Reminds me of where I was a decade ago - can it really be that long? The band in the corner strike up badly: 'Take Me Home, Country Roads.' The bar empties. I settle down to a Steinbeck classic. The band cease.
'Sunday 27th.' I loose my place and order another drink. I note the bar is now empty as the musicians wonder what to do next. The mossies start to make an impact. The band strike up unexpectedly to the missing hordes. Perhaps I could put in a request - some black metal perhaps? There's no-one here but they're doing their best. Then blessed silence at last. i devour another two pages.
'Monday 28th.'
It's Thursday. I call the bill.
Thoughtfulness
On unpacking after arrival on the beach, I find a cotton tee that I bought in Cambodia (which thus had a degree of sentimental value) was missing. A brief email exchange with my last digs at Jaffarei confirmed it had been found. Oh well, a detour back to my last base en route to the airport to collect. Never mind.
Come the day of my return, I'm running behind schedule due to traffic, and advise my driver not to worry about the detour, head to the airport. Zanzibar Airport (strip) is not the most exciting in the world, and things move slowly. The driver, like most locals, is spending a chunk of time on the phone as we approach Stonetown, I decide against having a moan.
Our petrol stop is something else; we park up and in front of us is a queue of people with jugs. No car, just a jug. Each person fills their jug to the brim with fresh, highly inflammable petroleum before wandering across the forecourt to pay. Not a single 'No Smoking' sign to be seen.
We swing around the city and come to a halt at one of the roundabouts. There by the side of the road is the hotel manager and a package containing a freshly laundered tee. That’s Tanzania: such lovely people.
On unpacking after arrival on the beach, I find a cotton tee that I bought in Cambodia (which thus had a degree of sentimental value) was missing. A brief email exchange with my last digs at Jaffarei confirmed it had been found. Oh well, a detour back to my last base en route to the airport to collect. Never mind.
Come the day of my return, I'm running behind schedule due to traffic, and advise my driver not to worry about the detour, head to the airport. Zanzibar Airport (strip) is not the most exciting in the world, and things move slowly. The driver, like most locals, is spending a chunk of time on the phone as we approach Stonetown, I decide against having a moan.
Our petrol stop is something else; we park up and in front of us is a queue of people with jugs. No car, just a jug. Each person fills their jug to the brim with fresh, highly inflammable petroleum before wandering across the forecourt to pay. Not a single 'No Smoking' sign to be seen.
We swing around the city and come to a halt at one of the roundabouts. There by the side of the road is the hotel manager and a package containing a freshly laundered tee. That’s Tanzania: such lovely people.
Qatar (A short stop over in Doha)
Taking advantage of the stopover offer with Qatar Airways, I booked three nights in a package bought alongside my airline ticket. It worked out to be around £100 extra for three nights, so an absolute bargain. You're assigned a room within the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels collection. This is a group of nine hotels located within the old traditional Souq, about a 20 minute taxi ride from the airport in Doha Central. You are assigned your hotel on arrival.
It's not what you expect from Doha at all - although recently rebuilt following a fire, the Souk oozes with character, a real step back in time to more traditional ways of long ago, with a still-functioning camel market, (you won’t need directions), a falcon hospital and related market. Each alley is enhanced by the smell of fine incense. Goods are varied, locally made and offer a plethora of quality gift options with variety at each turn. Deserted in the scalding heat of the day (#maddogsandenglishmen), the area fills up at sunset, with the local community out enjoying the wide variety of quality restaurants, and smoking the shisha, (though alcohol is still strictly banned). Food is expensive, but with only a fruit juice (try hibiscus) or local tea, the bill ends up similar to a night out in England, but with a gnawing recollection the following morning of everything you said or did.
Around the side of the market are ice cream and snack stalls, with benches set up for folk who just want to enjoy the cooling air, Families come out to play, the sites and smells lit up by the haunting call to prayer. At one stall, which made leather gun holsters, I enquired whether or not he had similar for mobile phones.
'What did you wan’t? I make it!'
'Sorry I am leaving in a couple of hours.'
'No problem'
His assistant takes my tattered old Jessops case and spends ten minutes measuring with the greatest of detail. It's ready for collection as promised and the workmanship is exceptional.
I was assigned a spacious room at the Musheireb Hotel, but the hotel had no facilities; you have to go the more luxurious choices for breakfast (not included), pool, spa etc. From here you can book dune bashing tours, dinner in the desert under the stars, or a variety of other options. Or, for cheapskates such as me there's a tour bus loop - £30 for 24 hours with an option for a night drive as well (included). If you get off, remember the bus runs around every 40 minutes, and there is no shelter from the fierce heat whilst awaiting the next one. Unless you get off at the Katara Cultural Village, which has an air conditioned waiting area. There are a few shops and restaurants open in the day, but it's more of an evening attraction. Note: the beach opposite opens late afternoon, once the heat of the day has passed.
The Islamic Museum of Art is also worth a visit and it's within walking distance from the Souk. Alongside the Corniche (seafront) there are numerous Dhows touting for evening cruises as the sun goes down.
Glittering on the other side of the bay, opposite the Souk, is the main business district with its many towers lit up at night like a mini Dubai.
The other main area is the new Pearl district, seemingly based on the Palm in Dubai. A man-made construction jutting out into the Gulf, it's of interest to visitors seeking very high value shopping and dining. So when all the super-rich abandon the UK because they would have to pay tax, they have a ready- made home. It's hotter than hell, but practice makes perfect. :)
Qatar air are a 5 star airline, well priced, with enough leg room and reasonable food, though the choice on the entertainment system is frankly awful. With three flights a day out of Gatwick alone, I found the flights were not at all crowded, so I could stretch out a bit . I did accept a well-priced offer of an upgrade, though this doesn't come with the lounge facilities. The business section was all you could want and rest was far too easy.
It's not what you expect from Doha at all - although recently rebuilt following a fire, the Souk oozes with character, a real step back in time to more traditional ways of long ago, with a still-functioning camel market, (you won’t need directions), a falcon hospital and related market. Each alley is enhanced by the smell of fine incense. Goods are varied, locally made and offer a plethora of quality gift options with variety at each turn. Deserted in the scalding heat of the day (#maddogsandenglishmen), the area fills up at sunset, with the local community out enjoying the wide variety of quality restaurants, and smoking the shisha, (though alcohol is still strictly banned). Food is expensive, but with only a fruit juice (try hibiscus) or local tea, the bill ends up similar to a night out in England, but with a gnawing recollection the following morning of everything you said or did.
Around the side of the market are ice cream and snack stalls, with benches set up for folk who just want to enjoy the cooling air, Families come out to play, the sites and smells lit up by the haunting call to prayer. At one stall, which made leather gun holsters, I enquired whether or not he had similar for mobile phones.
'What did you wan’t? I make it!'
'Sorry I am leaving in a couple of hours.'
'No problem'
His assistant takes my tattered old Jessops case and spends ten minutes measuring with the greatest of detail. It's ready for collection as promised and the workmanship is exceptional.
I was assigned a spacious room at the Musheireb Hotel, but the hotel had no facilities; you have to go the more luxurious choices for breakfast (not included), pool, spa etc. From here you can book dune bashing tours, dinner in the desert under the stars, or a variety of other options. Or, for cheapskates such as me there's a tour bus loop - £30 for 24 hours with an option for a night drive as well (included). If you get off, remember the bus runs around every 40 minutes, and there is no shelter from the fierce heat whilst awaiting the next one. Unless you get off at the Katara Cultural Village, which has an air conditioned waiting area. There are a few shops and restaurants open in the day, but it's more of an evening attraction. Note: the beach opposite opens late afternoon, once the heat of the day has passed.
The Islamic Museum of Art is also worth a visit and it's within walking distance from the Souk. Alongside the Corniche (seafront) there are numerous Dhows touting for evening cruises as the sun goes down.
Glittering on the other side of the bay, opposite the Souk, is the main business district with its many towers lit up at night like a mini Dubai.
The other main area is the new Pearl district, seemingly based on the Palm in Dubai. A man-made construction jutting out into the Gulf, it's of interest to visitors seeking very high value shopping and dining. So when all the super-rich abandon the UK because they would have to pay tax, they have a ready- made home. It's hotter than hell, but practice makes perfect. :)
Qatar air are a 5 star airline, well priced, with enough leg room and reasonable food, though the choice on the entertainment system is frankly awful. With three flights a day out of Gatwick alone, I found the flights were not at all crowded, so I could stretch out a bit . I did accept a well-priced offer of an upgrade, though this doesn't come with the lounge facilities. The business section was all you could want and rest was far too easy.
Boston
I’ll start this narrative on the Gatwick Express to London. A young Brazilian couple boarded the train at Gatwick and we opened a conversation about the South of Brazil, a place still dear in my heart.
The ‘Tickets-Please’ arrives to advise them they are on the wrong train, and need to upgrade their ticket; he offers to just add the supplement rather than fining them. As they start, rightfully, to protest, I intervene and advise them this could be a whole lot worse if the bullies (Revenue Protection) had boarded.
They pay the excess and the ‘Tickets-Please’ thanks me for my support, as I explain that yes, I have come twice as far on a much cheaper ticket. Welcome to the UK; welcome to dynamic pricing. Why do we have to make things so complicated for our visitors? Or are they just an easy target to be ripped off? (They had been assured at Gatwick that their ticket was valid.)
Roll on many hours, and I’m in the same situation at Boston Logan. The transit bus to the subway appears as I am scrambling around trying to find somewhere to purchase a ticket, but happily, it clearly indicates ‘Free Service’, so I board, and find myself deep in the system on arrival at South Station interchange. So then I have the task of finding a ticket into town, with no machines or any info anywhere. However, the uniformed assistant I approach greets me with, ‘You from the airport? In that case your first ride is free - welcome to Boston!’
What a difference. Even US Border control is good, rather than join the mile long admissions/immigration queue. As I’m on a new ESTA, I have to go to be interviewed, so I join another queue - or not, as next thing I know I’m standing in front of the officer.
‘Why are you coming to Boston?’
Me, proudly: ‘I’m here to visit Fenway’
‘Who’s Fenway, and how long have you guys known each other?’
I manage to resist the ‘you’re not from around here, are you?’ quip, which might have got me a quick return ticket. I politely clarify.
‘Where are you staying?’ I tell him the hotel details, he looks me up and down, confused. ‘What do YOU do for a living?’
‘Travel agent.’
‘Yup, figures,’ he says as my passport succumbs to the stamp and through I go
The city and its highlights
I was surprised at how compact the city actually is, with all major sites walkable in two days, so no need to take the overpriced trolley tours. I was in town for four nights but a full week would not be out of the question if you wanted to get out and explore the region. Boston Harbor Cruises offer the best selection of tours, with many destinations along with whale-watching and evening cruises around the harbour.
Usually, I aim for six nights to get to know a destination well, but on current US rates of exchange, this is becoming more and more difficult.
Boston Common
Boston’s central park - great for a walk, street theatre, and the Cheers bar on Beacon Street, with accompanying shop. (Although the outside was the original shot for the series, the inside is a mock up, and the shop appears to have removed Diane from historyL.) We’ll come to proper Boston bars later.
The Freedom Trail
An easy pavement-marked trail leading from Boston Common to Bunker Hill, via Charlestown Navy Yard over the Charles River, through the Italian neighborhood (North End) and featuring all the main historic sites, museums and … er … graveyards. The route takes in most of the significant historical buildings in the city, most of which are now museums.
Beacon Hill/Back Bay
A smart, upmarket residential district, with antique shops, wine bars, cafes and local restaurants, west of the Common. It’s a stroll through classical, historical, residential Boston, with the main photo spots around Louisburg Square.
The next district along is Back Bay, which offers riverfront walks where you can people-watch, as the locals relax by cycling, jogging and picnicking. A few blocks away from the river frontage, you can find seriously upmarket shopping, fine dining, and trendy coffee bars. Though there are still some surprises amongst this far more modern affluent area, such as Trinity Church and Boston Library.
It also offers the city view, from the top of the Prudential Centre. It’s $21 from the 50th floor or free from the 52nd floor bar, for the not unreasonable price of a cocktail. (Gin and pineapple, peeps - it’s the new thing.) At the back, past the DO NOT ENTER sign, is a stunning view of Fenway Park, the oldest baseball park on the continen
Dining
Let’s face it, with the £ at $1.25 and falling, we’re all going to struggle.
If you can, the main staple here is fish - chowder and lobster rolls being the local delicacies. But as with NYC, dinner is at nosebleed prices ($24 for a lobster roll and fries). Best dining is in and around Boylston Street in the Back Bay area.
Best beer bar is Tip Tap, a short walk from Bowdion on the Blue Line, which also has daily dining specials, and snacks. A huge choice of taps, though these can be expensive, up to $12 a glass and beyond.
So - my tips for serious savings:
- Eat at soup and sandwich shops; they’re very good value.
- Irish bars serve good value versions of what Mammie used to make, and the beer can be half the price of what the trendy craft beer bars sell. And some sell really good local brews anyway. They may have a bit of fun with you when they hear your accent; nod along, don’t wear anything blue and you’ll be just fine.
- Breakfast in Beacon Street need not break the bank. The queue at Tatte can be intimidating, but the super-efficient staff move the lines quickly, and there is always somewhere to sit.
- Look for American diners. Here, the legendary Victoria’s Diner rules. ‘The Vic’ is a local institution serving all the best versions of the finest American food, from the Deep South to Canada. My bill for unlimited coffee, meatloaf, and real lemonade was just under $17. It’s a hike to get to - best option is the hourly train to Newmarket from North Station (where the Amtrak departs). It’s just an eight minute ride, but make certain the conductor knows, as it’s a request stop. In my head, it’s six hours from Heathrow, give or take an airport transfer. It’s that good.
Sports
Boston is a serious sports city: The Bruins (hockey), Patriots (NFL), Celtics (basketball) and of course the legendry Red Sox baseball team. Prior to 2004, the Red Sox had not won the World Series since the First World War, and became the butt of many jokes. However, with four titles since 2004 they are well and truly back on the map.
Fenway is the oldest ballpark on the continent, and the most famous. Sitting just 40 minutes walk from Boston Common, it’s a fabulous venue – yes, a little dated in its seating and facilities, but opened the same week the Titanic sank, it’s real history. Pay for a more expensive seat or you may get an obstructed view.
Hotels
I stayed in the Liberty, which again packs in the history, being the former Charles Street jail. The building is still set around that theme, with some of the original cells still visible, and old safes and locks in each room. The hotel is doggy friendly with its own ‘yappy hour’ - I kid you not. Well-located opposite Charles/MGH station, and a two minute walk into old Beacon Hill. Its owners bring in a DJ most Saturday nights and the lobby turns into a nightclub, a great idea for the locals.
Next stop, the Kimpton Nine Zero, in the north east corner of Boston Common. It says ‘relax’ on the door, and means it. Full of local character and art, it’s a small boutique, but the rooms are very spacious and well thought out with a lovely deep leather armchair and footstool in each, perfect for a mid-afternoon rest. It has a wide range of highly-rated original cocktails, and a generous complimentary continental breakfast to help recover the next morning.
Nightlife here is late with three bar Irish bars within a five minute walk: food until 1am, drinks until 2, handy after the ball game. Be aware traditional dancing may break out at any time. Expect country/Irish fusion, which is of course the origin of a lot of American music to this day.
Bed and Breakfast
As always, a much higher standard than in the UK, and these allow access to some classical old buildings at reasonable prices, compared to their hotel equivalent. You would need, though, to hire a car to access the best selection. Indeed, New England would make a perfect seven night roadtrip around Providence, Rhode Island and Nantucket. See New England Inns and Resorts for details.
Sadly, it was far too soon to leave. I would happily return and feel that, as above, this could easily merit a full week.
Six Nights in Berlin
Continuing the concept of spending extended time in my favourite Cities its time to return to Berlin, in fact as it’s my fifth visit, is this indeed my favourite City destination? Add the chance to see the ridiculously OTT Rogers Waters show, in the City which influenced the Floyds finest hour, it didn’t take much encouragement to return.
With a direct flight Into Schönefeld, with Easyjet from Gatwick, access could not be easier. Though beware flights are switching to Tegal, an ‘airport’ that makes a motorway service station look like the height of glamour.
My first couple of nights I stayed at the legendary Adlon Hotel, right by the Brandenburg Gate. Although now rebuilt following the original building’s final demise in 1984, it still holds its pride of place on Unter den Linden. Its rebuild has tried to stay true to its history, with a replacement elephant fountain, a copy of the original piece gifted by the Maharaja of Patiala in 1930.
Being in the centre of the Mitte district I was at the heart of the major tourist belt, but there is so much more to this City that makes it unique. I shall not cover off the main attractions which are covered in great depth by the endless selection of guide books available. I worked with Lonely Planet Pocket Berlin and 500 hidden secrets of Berlin to get me a little more off track.
My second stop was the Hotel Cosmo, a smaller boutique style, 4 star, property just a short stroll from Museum Island heading North, or Kreuzberg heading East. This is a very good value stop, although away from the main nightlife, the U Bahn is opposite and the Cosmo is also well connected for the buses.
Learning’s of Berlin
Get out of the main tourist zone,
Prenzlauer Berg is great pick for an evening. Start by taking the M10 tram from Nordbahnhof towards Lüneburger Str. Sit on the right hand side. See that little park on the right that continues to Bernauer Str, that is the old course of the wall, and has far fewer visitors than other sections. The stadium to the left is the old Dynamo Berlin ground, the team that invented football corruption. They still exist to this day in the Regionalliga playing at the same venue.
Get off at Prenzlauer Allee/Danziger Str cross the road and 50 meters back is the Monterey Bar, best beer selection in the City, and a great rock soundtrack to boot. See beer list on the left. There is a great selection of dining opinions one street South on Sredzkistasse. Curry heads note a good South Indian at Chutnify (booking essential). Walk back to Eberswalder Str, there is a big Cultural Centre (Kulturbauerei) where events, beer festivals and parties can erupt at any given moment. Check listings. Follow the rail line North along Bundessrasse to Zum Starken August for some Burlesque action if you so wish?
Plenty of transport options for your return back at Eberswalder Str.
Go Turkish. Kreuzberg is Berlin’s grubby underbelly, but great fun, particularly if you like Turkish food, shisha, and earthy rock bars. Out and about in this zone is cheap and cheerful, and a wander down Oranienstasse (access from Kottbusser Tor) you are sure to find somewhere interesting to eat and drink. Just follow your nose. It’s edgy yes, but I walked through in the dead of night without problems. It is in fact the biggest Turkish community outside the country, with each major Istanbul football team having a social centre.
If you eat trad German just once try Max and Moritz, which has been serving big portions of traditional German fare since 1902, part beer hall, part restaurant, a huge platter of Goulash and Spatzel with a large beer came to well under 25Eur. Service is surprisingly speedy, but there is no hurry to vacate the table. Further East along from Max (Oranienstasse) to Biererei, a bar and bottle shop with a wide selection of beers to drink in on tap, or bottles to take home. For a bar with a difference try Ankerklause, right on the Spree, nautical theme with a great rock influenced juke box, snag a table on the terrace for river views.
Finally if you are in town on a Thursday evening check out the Street Food stands at Markthalle Neun. (Eisenbahnstrasse) A range of food, and wine from across the globe are on sale for both taking home, or eating on one of the tables scattered throughout the hall. Yes, of course, there is also a brewery selling a selection of craft ales.
Take a tour of Templehof Airport:
U Bahn to Platz der Luftbrücke, English tours of the old terminal building available.
Closed to commercial flights since 2008 this huge classic airport still lies trapped in the past with its classic 1930’s design. Now used as a giant recreational space, and home to the largest refugee camp in Germany.
The old check in area (access via a pre bookable tour) remains a nod to times gone by and is still available for parties and business gatherings, so it is kept clean and tidy, frozen in time. The buildings around are derelict though also accessible via the tour. This is Berlin’s history in a nutshell, the rise of the Nazi’s, the arrival of the allies, the Berlin airlift, the Cold War (when it became a US airbase complete with art deco cinema and basketball court), it all happened here.
The airstrip is now a popular public park.
Take a walk to Potsdam:
Catch the S Bahn to Griebnitzsee. Exit towards the River. Turn left (Rudolf-Breitscheid Staße) follow into Karl Marx Staße. After about a mile turn left at the end of the road and follow down to a small bridge crossing into Klein Glienicke. (There is a small café on the right) You are now on the route of the former wall, now a large footpath (Waldmüllerstaße) follow onto the main road left to cross the infamous Glienicker Brücke, The Bridge of Spies, where some of the most famous exchanges took place in the cold war.
On the other side of the bridge continue into Potsdam or take the local tram into the City centre. Potsdam is a curious place where a mixture of classic Prussian buildings intermix with some awful eastern style developments. Major work is now taking place to modernise the City but it has a very different feel to Berlin. I have noted it for a longer visit next time, and also too visit Schloss Sanssouci (Frederick the Great’s summer palace)
If you don’t fancy the walk a worthwhile day can be had on the lakes around Wannsee. Get off at Wannsee S Bahn and head to the lake where there are numerous boast available for a cruise, or cross to Kladow on the other side of the lake and bus back to Spandau for U bahn connections back into Berlin City.
Photo Album here.
Six Nights in Quebec
So I have realised that I miss Snow, no you know real snow that we used to have when I was a kid. That snow we don’t see any more in Sussex. Thus up comes the idea to snow hunt, and thus the rather eccentric idea of going to Quebec, and just to make sure let’s go in January, that should cut it.
It certainly did. A three and a half hour spectacular train trip form Montreal, I spent a week wandering around Quebec City looking like the Michelin Man complete with a deceased muskrat on my head. Quebec City has been on the hit list for a long time. The only walled City in North America, a wonderful unspoilt old town, divided into the upper town within the old walls, and the lower town below down by the river. Unique in its geography, and of course full of unique sights, museums, shops and of course food, served in big meaty portions, and to top it off a rather cute winter carnival which was on during my visit.
I stayed for three nights just outside the old town, at Auberge Aux Deux Lions. A lovely 3 star hotel, which really feels more like a really cosy guest house, located just a twenty minute walk from the City gates, or ten minutes from the lively Grand Allee, the centre of the local night life. The old town is actually very quiet at night as the more elderly tourists tend to bed down early.
Along with the Saint -Roch area this is the place to hang out if you want to get down and dirty with the locals. Usual rules, a little French will get you a long way. These parts of town boast good well priced dining options along with fast food parlours, especially along Ave Cartier just over from the Plains of Abraham, a winter center for cross country ski and shoeing area without leaving the City. It didn’t take me long to find a couple of favourites, the standout being Noctem brewery, boasting a sichuan pepper and lemon ale. Actually lovely. Food available.
Most evenings were spent in a feisty local, with some seriously entertaining characters. Live music some nights, sometimes a gutsy sing along of some Francophile classics. It was not until someone took great objection to my speaking English and was bundled out of the bar by the staff that it was explained I was in the local Quebec separatist bar. You don’t find these downtown.
For the second part of the trip I stayed at the Fairmont Chateaux Frontenac. The huge, old handsome building that dominates the old town, and towers over the St Laurence River. Originally built as a grand railway hotel, I was able to snag a small turret room with a view of the river. Curiously the hotel offers a canine receptionist. Yup a dog is on duty to greet other hounds and a lot of very enchanted children. An excellent Canadian breakfast is served in their Place Dufferin alongside the famous walkway the Terrasse Dufferin, if youn don’t fancy wandering out in the freezing morning.
Of course town walks were limited to 30 minutes at a time, between warm up coffees, and feigning an interest in ludicrously expensive art shops, just to keep warm.
A good value trip is the ferry to Lévis the City opposite, it ploughs through the ice every 20 minutes, taking just 12 minutes to cross the one kilometer across the St Lawrence River. This is a photographic treat for the views of the Chateaux and lower town.
The Quebec Winter Carnival brings a lot of fun to the City and parks turn into areas for partying with an icy theme, ice sculptures appear throughout the town, the party areas charge a very reasonable $15 for full access through the whole festival, and it offers live music at the weekend. Of course with so much to see and do, alongside a biting -20C, it is a question of how long you want to stay out for, though warm indoor bars and rest areas are provided.
Learnings of Quebec
It may be French, but continental breakfast doesn’t cover -20c. The innut never did well on croissants. Big Canadian breakfasts if you please, with us much Maple Bacon as you can get. Veganism is unknown here.
Nasal hair freezes at -20c
These areas were founded by fur trappers. Fur is worn as a necessity. Don’t even think of entering a debate on it. They put you in the cell with the vegans.
With no NHL franchise the Hockey team is Quebec Remparts, who play in the Quebec Major Junior Hockey League at the impressive Videotron Centre. I saw them play the might of Drummondville Voltigeurs. It didn’t go well, with Quebec losing 4-1, rather like the Albion going down to Lancing.
Poutine is the local culinary specialty, chips, cheese curds, meat of choice, served generously doused in brown gravy. Or chips n’gravy as we call it.
Interestingly 8% of current birth rate is within the indigenous population, though with so much intermarriage and a peculiar habit in the past of the catholic church of placing out of wedlock children in with the First Nations you would not notice. The Huron have a community in Wendake with a good centre, open throughout the year.
A final note if coming by train, take an overnight hotel at Montreal airport and board the train at Gare Dorval, just ten minutes away, which has direct trains through to Quebec City, if you do not want to have the faff of going into Montreal City.
Photo collection here.
It certainly did. A three and a half hour spectacular train trip form Montreal, I spent a week wandering around Quebec City looking like the Michelin Man complete with a deceased muskrat on my head. Quebec City has been on the hit list for a long time. The only walled City in North America, a wonderful unspoilt old town, divided into the upper town within the old walls, and the lower town below down by the river. Unique in its geography, and of course full of unique sights, museums, shops and of course food, served in big meaty portions, and to top it off a rather cute winter carnival which was on during my visit.
I stayed for three nights just outside the old town, at Auberge Aux Deux Lions. A lovely 3 star hotel, which really feels more like a really cosy guest house, located just a twenty minute walk from the City gates, or ten minutes from the lively Grand Allee, the centre of the local night life. The old town is actually very quiet at night as the more elderly tourists tend to bed down early.
Along with the Saint -Roch area this is the place to hang out if you want to get down and dirty with the locals. Usual rules, a little French will get you a long way. These parts of town boast good well priced dining options along with fast food parlours, especially along Ave Cartier just over from the Plains of Abraham, a winter center for cross country ski and shoeing area without leaving the City. It didn’t take me long to find a couple of favourites, the standout being Noctem brewery, boasting a sichuan pepper and lemon ale. Actually lovely. Food available.
Most evenings were spent in a feisty local, with some seriously entertaining characters. Live music some nights, sometimes a gutsy sing along of some Francophile classics. It was not until someone took great objection to my speaking English and was bundled out of the bar by the staff that it was explained I was in the local Quebec separatist bar. You don’t find these downtown.
For the second part of the trip I stayed at the Fairmont Chateaux Frontenac. The huge, old handsome building that dominates the old town, and towers over the St Laurence River. Originally built as a grand railway hotel, I was able to snag a small turret room with a view of the river. Curiously the hotel offers a canine receptionist. Yup a dog is on duty to greet other hounds and a lot of very enchanted children. An excellent Canadian breakfast is served in their Place Dufferin alongside the famous walkway the Terrasse Dufferin, if youn don’t fancy wandering out in the freezing morning.
Of course town walks were limited to 30 minutes at a time, between warm up coffees, and feigning an interest in ludicrously expensive art shops, just to keep warm.
A good value trip is the ferry to Lévis the City opposite, it ploughs through the ice every 20 minutes, taking just 12 minutes to cross the one kilometer across the St Lawrence River. This is a photographic treat for the views of the Chateaux and lower town.
The Quebec Winter Carnival brings a lot of fun to the City and parks turn into areas for partying with an icy theme, ice sculptures appear throughout the town, the party areas charge a very reasonable $15 for full access through the whole festival, and it offers live music at the weekend. Of course with so much to see and do, alongside a biting -20C, it is a question of how long you want to stay out for, though warm indoor bars and rest areas are provided.
Learnings of Quebec
It may be French, but continental breakfast doesn’t cover -20c. The innut never did well on croissants. Big Canadian breakfasts if you please, with us much Maple Bacon as you can get. Veganism is unknown here.
Nasal hair freezes at -20c
These areas were founded by fur trappers. Fur is worn as a necessity. Don’t even think of entering a debate on it. They put you in the cell with the vegans.
With no NHL franchise the Hockey team is Quebec Remparts, who play in the Quebec Major Junior Hockey League at the impressive Videotron Centre. I saw them play the might of Drummondville Voltigeurs. It didn’t go well, with Quebec losing 4-1, rather like the Albion going down to Lancing.
Poutine is the local culinary specialty, chips, cheese curds, meat of choice, served generously doused in brown gravy. Or chips n’gravy as we call it.
Interestingly 8% of current birth rate is within the indigenous population, though with so much intermarriage and a peculiar habit in the past of the catholic church of placing out of wedlock children in with the First Nations you would not notice. The Huron have a community in Wendake with a good centre, open throughout the year.
A final note if coming by train, take an overnight hotel at Montreal airport and board the train at Gare Dorval, just ten minutes away, which has direct trains through to Quebec City, if you do not want to have the faff of going into Montreal City.
Photo collection here.
Six Nights in Luang Prabang
After the usual tangles with Khmer life, and another rush around the temples, not to mention pub street I needed some P and Q and top of the list for this region is the wonderfully quixotic Luang Prabang.
This very laid back old town is a living museum to French Indochina, and is of course very popular with the French visitors. The upshot of course is there are some very stylish French restaurants, with wine lists to match. Pricing is not outrageous and it makes a nice change to the considerably cheaper Laotian options. Booking required at the bigger names such as Tangor.
I stayed at the Belle River Hotel on the Mekong side of the old town with a small balcony overlooking the Mekong. Rooms are small for the price but the building is perfectly charming and the manager is on hand most days to ensure guest satisfaction. The restaurant is over the road and is set on the riverbank. So good I ate here after I moved hotel to the Belmond to do a hotel inspection.
The town boasts over 30 temples and consequently monks are a very common site at all hours. You can wander through the monasteries and see them in action, and blessings can be arranged privately. The fabled alms giving ceremony commences at dawn when local people sit on the roadside to present a small handful of food to the monks who form a procession through the streets of the old town. This makes merit in the next life it is believed. Tourists can join in and briefings are available prior to ensure the rituals are correctly maintained. Photography is accepted as long as you do not get in the way or follow the procession, no flash photography may be used.
Evening life is low key with bars offering last orders at 23.00, close by 23.30, and off the street please by midnight. A number of venues do remain open on the edge of town. This fortifies the peace of the old town and discourages the wilder backpacking crowd. For a perfect night out visit the deliciously eccentric Icon Klub, cocktails with an alternative soundtrack mixed by the lovely Liza a real character, and entertaining hostess. Then off to Opera restaurant for some great pasta if you fancy a change from local food. Finish with a late night coffee at La Cafe Ban Vat Sene, all within a five minute walk of each other.
As usual many day tips can be organised and the most popular is to the Pak Ou Caves. Overnight treks, with a homestay, into the jungle are popular amongst the fitter young crowd. I took a day trek, which was supposed to take around seven hours with breaks in two local villages. It took me nine arriving back just after dark. It was tough, very tough, though spectacular. Amazingly it is believed Tigers are to this day roaming high up in the more remote mountains nearby.
For a more sedate experience visitors can volunteer to assist Brother Mouse, where you give up a couple of hours to assist the local students practice their English language skills. Daily sessions at 09.00 and 17.00 for a couple of hours.
Its a laid back riverside lifestyle is not for everyone I though thought it one of the most beautiful charismatic cities in the continent, its old town not being caught up in the American war which devastated the Southern and Eastern regions of the Country. At the pinnacle of the old town just three streets separate the Mekong from its tributary the Nam Khan, with a number of monasteries contained within the area.
I was also hosted for a couple of nights by the Belmond Pho Vuo, situated just a five minute tuc tuc ride from the old town. Arrival is in an open plan reception area surrounded by teak woods and local furniture. Belmond properites embarce the local environment well, and feel very relaxed from the monent of arrival to that of departure. I stayed in a spacious Mountain View Room. The beds here are just so comfortable you just don’t want to get up. I also loved the good old Belmond bath, a three level epic. A complementary transfer service to and from town is available. The hotel kindly organised an afternoon visit to a local temple for a blessing, I was the only one who accepted and soon found myself with a local guide who explained the process much to the amusement of the local worshipers and monks.
As time rolls on I find I no longer enjoy the backpacking two nights in each destination ritual, I really prefer getting to know a destination long enough to make friends. Six nights here was just total bliss, when my usually hugely supportive wife starts complaining she has missed something you know you have it right.
Luang Prabang is an essential part of any South East Asian itinerary, and too often overlooked. Its location between the Mekong and its tributary make serenely beautiful. Surrounded by mountains it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. Get here and stay awhile.
Full Photo gallery here.
This very laid back old town is a living museum to French Indochina, and is of course very popular with the French visitors. The upshot of course is there are some very stylish French restaurants, with wine lists to match. Pricing is not outrageous and it makes a nice change to the considerably cheaper Laotian options. Booking required at the bigger names such as Tangor.
I stayed at the Belle River Hotel on the Mekong side of the old town with a small balcony overlooking the Mekong. Rooms are small for the price but the building is perfectly charming and the manager is on hand most days to ensure guest satisfaction. The restaurant is over the road and is set on the riverbank. So good I ate here after I moved hotel to the Belmond to do a hotel inspection.
The town boasts over 30 temples and consequently monks are a very common site at all hours. You can wander through the monasteries and see them in action, and blessings can be arranged privately. The fabled alms giving ceremony commences at dawn when local people sit on the roadside to present a small handful of food to the monks who form a procession through the streets of the old town. This makes merit in the next life it is believed. Tourists can join in and briefings are available prior to ensure the rituals are correctly maintained. Photography is accepted as long as you do not get in the way or follow the procession, no flash photography may be used.
Evening life is low key with bars offering last orders at 23.00, close by 23.30, and off the street please by midnight. A number of venues do remain open on the edge of town. This fortifies the peace of the old town and discourages the wilder backpacking crowd. For a perfect night out visit the deliciously eccentric Icon Klub, cocktails with an alternative soundtrack mixed by the lovely Liza a real character, and entertaining hostess. Then off to Opera restaurant for some great pasta if you fancy a change from local food. Finish with a late night coffee at La Cafe Ban Vat Sene, all within a five minute walk of each other.
As usual many day tips can be organised and the most popular is to the Pak Ou Caves. Overnight treks, with a homestay, into the jungle are popular amongst the fitter young crowd. I took a day trek, which was supposed to take around seven hours with breaks in two local villages. It took me nine arriving back just after dark. It was tough, very tough, though spectacular. Amazingly it is believed Tigers are to this day roaming high up in the more remote mountains nearby.
For a more sedate experience visitors can volunteer to assist Brother Mouse, where you give up a couple of hours to assist the local students practice their English language skills. Daily sessions at 09.00 and 17.00 for a couple of hours.
Its a laid back riverside lifestyle is not for everyone I though thought it one of the most beautiful charismatic cities in the continent, its old town not being caught up in the American war which devastated the Southern and Eastern regions of the Country. At the pinnacle of the old town just three streets separate the Mekong from its tributary the Nam Khan, with a number of monasteries contained within the area.
I was also hosted for a couple of nights by the Belmond Pho Vuo, situated just a five minute tuc tuc ride from the old town. Arrival is in an open plan reception area surrounded by teak woods and local furniture. Belmond properites embarce the local environment well, and feel very relaxed from the monent of arrival to that of departure. I stayed in a spacious Mountain View Room. The beds here are just so comfortable you just don’t want to get up. I also loved the good old Belmond bath, a three level epic. A complementary transfer service to and from town is available. The hotel kindly organised an afternoon visit to a local temple for a blessing, I was the only one who accepted and soon found myself with a local guide who explained the process much to the amusement of the local worshipers and monks.
As time rolls on I find I no longer enjoy the backpacking two nights in each destination ritual, I really prefer getting to know a destination long enough to make friends. Six nights here was just total bliss, when my usually hugely supportive wife starts complaining she has missed something you know you have it right.
Luang Prabang is an essential part of any South East Asian itinerary, and too often overlooked. Its location between the Mekong and its tributary make serenely beautiful. Surrounded by mountains it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. Get here and stay awhile.
Full Photo gallery here.
Top of the World
So Ryan and I did our first cruise, and (me being me) did it somewhat differently. We looked at either the Hurtigruten tour featuring Spitsbergen, far off the north coast of Norway, or enjoy the concept of not flying at all and cruise directly from Southampton, thus being able to take as much luggage as we liked direct to the port. Add winter clothing, suitable dining attire (yes, after all these years a dinner jacket - sit down and conform, boy) and a bag full of Beavertown Brewery goodies for the journey. (Perfectly acceptable, it would seem.)
We chose the P&O boat Oriana. The cruise outbound felt like a real adventure, watching our GPS position continue increasingly northward and on up towards the Arctic Circle. The weather soon turned colder. And colder. The snow arrived, and by the time of our first port of Andalsnes it was real, proper snow.
A surprise for us was that the Oriana had a bar with real ale on cask. Guess - our local beer, Dark Star Hophead (£4.75 a pint). I swear if I ever went to the moon, I would find someone up there smiling happily behind a Dark Star pump clip! There is no escape. (Also Thornbridge Jaipur in bottles at a very reasonable £3.65 for half a litre.) The pint wasn’t bad, but a little too warm. Cellaring courses, P&O?
Food was in the main good. Choices included a full dining at table service, where you shared with up to six other guests - a great way to meet other travellers. Food was served quickly, always hot, and there was decent choice with sensible portions. This establishment also offered the full English breakfast service, three course lunches and afternoon tea.
Alternatively, at the very top of the boat was The Conservatory. Some nice English choices for the first week, steak and kidney pie, faggots, etc. Choice seemed to become less imaginative in the second week, with more and more curries but less range . Of course, you could go back for seconds or have a top up from the night time snack menu, open until 3am - perhaps unfairly dubbed ‘The Trough’ by us.
There were also two speciality restaurants: Beach House (a steak house with bigger than average portions at a £7 supplement), and Sindhu (£15 supplement and a really good Indian alternative). You can bring in drinks from the bar; staff will even offer to go and fetch them.
The beer and sports bar (Lord’s Tavern), the home of the Hophead, had a decent juke box and offered quizzes each night. Tiffany’s was a café offering proper coffee with free cakes. The Crow’s Nest was a rather upmarket lounge with the best views - a nice place to relax.
Entertainment was straight out of 1950s Butlin’s (Hi Di Hi). A main show each evening, usually a tribute band, comedian (or so they said), or music act. Why they could not source some local entertainment relating to the destinations being visited I do not know. (Maybe a local folk act?) Dance classes were also on offer (the salsa night sounded fun). I did feel sorry for the entertainments manageress who wandered the boat at all hours with a fixed grin trying to keep everyone amused and in the spirit.
The Oriana did also boast a small cinema, and in fairness some of the lectures were of interest. A couple of shops did sell local products at a good discount, and some essentials. There was also a casino and a few hands of blackjack were played, breaking even over the cruise.
Our first stop was Andalsnes, a small town south of the Arctic Circle, giving us a quite fantastic evening arrival through the snowy fjords. We were allowed off the boat from around 22.30 - my first steps in Norway since the early 80s. The town had completely gone to bed by the time we arrived, no sign of even a bar!
Come the morning, we took a hike into town to buy some souvenirs and look for some more appropriate arctic clothing. The town is dominated by its unique mountaineering centre, which doubles as a tourist office and coffee bar. The main attraction is the Rauma Railway, a spectacular route into the mountains and past the Trollveggen (Troll Wall). We were off the train after an hour and bussed back to the boat for an evening departure to Tromso.
After two more nights on the boat, a dramatic crossing of the Arctic Circle (accompanied by a rainbow marking the very spot!) and some fellows travellers celebrating by taking a dip in the still-open outdoor pool, we arrived in Tromso.
Situated 350kms north of the Arctic Circle, it’s the third biggest city within the Circle (after the Russian cities of Murmansk and Norilsk). It was a surprising delight, and merits consideration as a city break on its own.
A shuttle bus guided us the 10 minute drive from the port, dropping us off in the centre of town. Tromso boasts some really entertaining museums featuring polar/maritime history and its own cathedral located across a dramatic bridge back onto the mainland from the city’s island location. There’s also a wide range of restaurants, coffee shops and bars, including the famous Olhallen (http://www.mack.no/olhallen), Tromso’s oldest pub, and now a home to the craft beer fraternity. (Think of UK prices and triple it – sorry.) It is also home to a wide variety of outdoor adventures, from meeting the indigenous Sami population, husky mushing, whale cruises and of course Northern Lights spotting. It even has a cablecar on the mainland up a mountain for views of the area, and from the far side the dark skies necessary for Aurora hunting.
The city was deep in fresh snow, as much as I have ever seen – beautiful! Ryan and I visited the Polarmuseum, on the harbour front, took a bus across the bridge to the Arctic Cathedral (£5 for three stops, so cheaper than Southern Rail), then walked back through a full blizzard up to Olhallen, before getting the shuttle bus back to the ship. The Sami have a little shop in a caravan on the harbour front but the souvenirs were disappointing.
Overnight then to Alta, a small town in the very far north of Norway. It would probably make a great base in the summer for hiking and fishing, but in truth there is little here to keep you other than a good husky centre, a Sami community, and Northern Lights spotting. The old town did not survive the war, and so the centre is now a modern town square with a few restaurants and a fairly average shopping centre.
However we did run into the Finnmarkslopet, the longest dog sled race in Europe. This bought out the whole town, TV crews, and an engaging local commentator translating the events into English for us, which made a lively diversion.
The following evening, Ryan and I did the town. Well, a music bar and the local pizzeria, our one and only dine out locally - ½ a reindeer pizza and a beer for £25. We went back to the boat to top up at The Trough.
The highlight of the whole trip was our morning with the huskies. A well organised route with a guide riding on the sled with us. We were allowed onto the well marked route set up for Finnmarkslopet and were soon careering along at quite a speed, rather like being in the Winter Olympics. To add to the atmosphere we were first away into the track. Wonderful! More please.
Despite paying a small fortune to go on a Northern Lights Safari (with a 95% success rate), we were unlucky. Just as the previous expedition returned having had moderate success, it clouded over for our arrival at the dedicated site, which in fairness did have some good facilities (a nice cottage to warm up in and ladles of hot chocolate on hand). To really wind us up, the lights became visible for those who stayed on the boat while we were on the coach heading north. The local organiser, Trygve Nygard, did give us a good prior briefing. He has three sites around Alta, and, working to weather patterns and predictions, will choose the best site on the night. It didn’t help having a full moon, however, and I would thus question the timing of the cruise. (For Aurora fans, you can refer to http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/Europe for a forecast, and lights are frequently seen from as far south as Northumberland.)
Back onto the boat, final stop Stavanger. It wasn’t long after we left port that we hit a storm leading to a very uncomfortable night in a force 11, with waves crashing over our window 9 decks up. The choppy waters followed us pretty much all the way home, and the decks were consequently closed. The restaurants deserve high praise for maintaining full service despite the chaotic weather. Pretty soon, possibly because we were all together below decks, a very heavy chest cough started to do the rounds, and spread like wildfire.
Our arrival into Stavanger was thus delayed, leaving us just a four hour window to check out this beautiful town with its charming wooden houses. We did the walking tour at a pace, but were not even left time for a coffee on Ovre Holmegate (Colour Street) before being shunted back on board for Southampton. Not enough time at all. Would have loved an evening here.
Our final night was spent back at the excellent Indian (Sindhu) restaurant on the 36 hour run back into Southampton, with a few bottles of Jaipur from the bar. A fitting end to the trip, hugely enjoyable on the way up, more than a little rough on the way back.
Would I do it again? Yes, but to go somewhere different, off the map - Greenland, Svalbald. It’s a great way to do the Arctic.
We chose the P&O boat Oriana. The cruise outbound felt like a real adventure, watching our GPS position continue increasingly northward and on up towards the Arctic Circle. The weather soon turned colder. And colder. The snow arrived, and by the time of our first port of Andalsnes it was real, proper snow.
A surprise for us was that the Oriana had a bar with real ale on cask. Guess - our local beer, Dark Star Hophead (£4.75 a pint). I swear if I ever went to the moon, I would find someone up there smiling happily behind a Dark Star pump clip! There is no escape. (Also Thornbridge Jaipur in bottles at a very reasonable £3.65 for half a litre.) The pint wasn’t bad, but a little too warm. Cellaring courses, P&O?
Food was in the main good. Choices included a full dining at table service, where you shared with up to six other guests - a great way to meet other travellers. Food was served quickly, always hot, and there was decent choice with sensible portions. This establishment also offered the full English breakfast service, three course lunches and afternoon tea.
Alternatively, at the very top of the boat was The Conservatory. Some nice English choices for the first week, steak and kidney pie, faggots, etc. Choice seemed to become less imaginative in the second week, with more and more curries but less range . Of course, you could go back for seconds or have a top up from the night time snack menu, open until 3am - perhaps unfairly dubbed ‘The Trough’ by us.
There were also two speciality restaurants: Beach House (a steak house with bigger than average portions at a £7 supplement), and Sindhu (£15 supplement and a really good Indian alternative). You can bring in drinks from the bar; staff will even offer to go and fetch them.
The beer and sports bar (Lord’s Tavern), the home of the Hophead, had a decent juke box and offered quizzes each night. Tiffany’s was a café offering proper coffee with free cakes. The Crow’s Nest was a rather upmarket lounge with the best views - a nice place to relax.
Entertainment was straight out of 1950s Butlin’s (Hi Di Hi). A main show each evening, usually a tribute band, comedian (or so they said), or music act. Why they could not source some local entertainment relating to the destinations being visited I do not know. (Maybe a local folk act?) Dance classes were also on offer (the salsa night sounded fun). I did feel sorry for the entertainments manageress who wandered the boat at all hours with a fixed grin trying to keep everyone amused and in the spirit.
The Oriana did also boast a small cinema, and in fairness some of the lectures were of interest. A couple of shops did sell local products at a good discount, and some essentials. There was also a casino and a few hands of blackjack were played, breaking even over the cruise.
Our first stop was Andalsnes, a small town south of the Arctic Circle, giving us a quite fantastic evening arrival through the snowy fjords. We were allowed off the boat from around 22.30 - my first steps in Norway since the early 80s. The town had completely gone to bed by the time we arrived, no sign of even a bar!
Come the morning, we took a hike into town to buy some souvenirs and look for some more appropriate arctic clothing. The town is dominated by its unique mountaineering centre, which doubles as a tourist office and coffee bar. The main attraction is the Rauma Railway, a spectacular route into the mountains and past the Trollveggen (Troll Wall). We were off the train after an hour and bussed back to the boat for an evening departure to Tromso.
After two more nights on the boat, a dramatic crossing of the Arctic Circle (accompanied by a rainbow marking the very spot!) and some fellows travellers celebrating by taking a dip in the still-open outdoor pool, we arrived in Tromso.
Situated 350kms north of the Arctic Circle, it’s the third biggest city within the Circle (after the Russian cities of Murmansk and Norilsk). It was a surprising delight, and merits consideration as a city break on its own.
A shuttle bus guided us the 10 minute drive from the port, dropping us off in the centre of town. Tromso boasts some really entertaining museums featuring polar/maritime history and its own cathedral located across a dramatic bridge back onto the mainland from the city’s island location. There’s also a wide range of restaurants, coffee shops and bars, including the famous Olhallen (http://www.mack.no/olhallen), Tromso’s oldest pub, and now a home to the craft beer fraternity. (Think of UK prices and triple it – sorry.) It is also home to a wide variety of outdoor adventures, from meeting the indigenous Sami population, husky mushing, whale cruises and of course Northern Lights spotting. It even has a cablecar on the mainland up a mountain for views of the area, and from the far side the dark skies necessary for Aurora hunting.
The city was deep in fresh snow, as much as I have ever seen – beautiful! Ryan and I visited the Polarmuseum, on the harbour front, took a bus across the bridge to the Arctic Cathedral (£5 for three stops, so cheaper than Southern Rail), then walked back through a full blizzard up to Olhallen, before getting the shuttle bus back to the ship. The Sami have a little shop in a caravan on the harbour front but the souvenirs were disappointing.
Overnight then to Alta, a small town in the very far north of Norway. It would probably make a great base in the summer for hiking and fishing, but in truth there is little here to keep you other than a good husky centre, a Sami community, and Northern Lights spotting. The old town did not survive the war, and so the centre is now a modern town square with a few restaurants and a fairly average shopping centre.
However we did run into the Finnmarkslopet, the longest dog sled race in Europe. This bought out the whole town, TV crews, and an engaging local commentator translating the events into English for us, which made a lively diversion.
The following evening, Ryan and I did the town. Well, a music bar and the local pizzeria, our one and only dine out locally - ½ a reindeer pizza and a beer for £25. We went back to the boat to top up at The Trough.
The highlight of the whole trip was our morning with the huskies. A well organised route with a guide riding on the sled with us. We were allowed onto the well marked route set up for Finnmarkslopet and were soon careering along at quite a speed, rather like being in the Winter Olympics. To add to the atmosphere we were first away into the track. Wonderful! More please.
Despite paying a small fortune to go on a Northern Lights Safari (with a 95% success rate), we were unlucky. Just as the previous expedition returned having had moderate success, it clouded over for our arrival at the dedicated site, which in fairness did have some good facilities (a nice cottage to warm up in and ladles of hot chocolate on hand). To really wind us up, the lights became visible for those who stayed on the boat while we were on the coach heading north. The local organiser, Trygve Nygard, did give us a good prior briefing. He has three sites around Alta, and, working to weather patterns and predictions, will choose the best site on the night. It didn’t help having a full moon, however, and I would thus question the timing of the cruise. (For Aurora fans, you can refer to http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast/Europe for a forecast, and lights are frequently seen from as far south as Northumberland.)
Back onto the boat, final stop Stavanger. It wasn’t long after we left port that we hit a storm leading to a very uncomfortable night in a force 11, with waves crashing over our window 9 decks up. The choppy waters followed us pretty much all the way home, and the decks were consequently closed. The restaurants deserve high praise for maintaining full service despite the chaotic weather. Pretty soon, possibly because we were all together below decks, a very heavy chest cough started to do the rounds, and spread like wildfire.
Our arrival into Stavanger was thus delayed, leaving us just a four hour window to check out this beautiful town with its charming wooden houses. We did the walking tour at a pace, but were not even left time for a coffee on Ovre Holmegate (Colour Street) before being shunted back on board for Southampton. Not enough time at all. Would have loved an evening here.
Our final night was spent back at the excellent Indian (Sindhu) restaurant on the 36 hour run back into Southampton, with a few bottles of Jaipur from the bar. A fitting end to the trip, hugely enjoyable on the way up, more than a little rough on the way back.
Would I do it again? Yes, but to go somewhere different, off the map - Greenland, Svalbald. It’s a great way to do the Arctic.
Cape Town and Kruger
See agent page
China with Imperial Tours
See agent site for full report.
Owen and I do Japan (September 2015)
Tokyo
Tokyo is remarkably like NYC, with the taxis a different colour. A transport system almost impossible to understand with lines veering off in all directions like a spiders web, oases of green where you least expect them, and a remarkably healthy craft beer scene. Add though the benefits of a remarkably safe city, clean and tidy without being at all boring, and none of those difficult tipping situations.
Food can be difficult with limited English menus available, though most cafes will have pictures of mocked up versions of their offerings in the window. Seafood is cheap and plentiful, bowls of noodles are on every street corner, in general food was surprisingly very well priced unless you needed to go Western. For example a good steak dinner in touristville will set you back £60 a head. A bowl of food in local gaff will set you back £3 though you may need more than one. Beer is cheap, Kirrin being the best of the local choices, Craft beer will cost the same as at home, though some of the draft beers were disappointing, best to go for the kegged offerings which were more reliable, local wines at dinner around half UK restaurant price.
Of course Tokyo does quirky in spades, bird cafes, cat cafes all the way to the far more disturbing maid cafes. (Being told by a very young girl, dressed as a twelve year old, I was her master, and she was there to please me, was frankly flesh crawling.)
We lost Owen for a day in Akihabra, amongst the Pokemon and other Anime and Manga stores which could extend through five floors of geeky madness, one of them even healthy trading vintage 70's gaming. The local girls were in on the act cramming one store where they could transform themselves into their cartoon heros, complete with a wig and hair design section. The utterly nauseous JPop assaulted you at every corner, with scantily dressed schoolgirls launching into vomit inducing dance routines.
Of course the Japanese cartoon industry has high points as well, the stunning Ghibly museum is just a short train ride out of town, and invites adults and children alike into a surreal world of Art and Imagination. Bookings are needed months in advance to access. (Begin with 'Spirited Away' a truly mind bending fantasy.)
We stayed at The Gate in Akusa, a vibrant local district opposite the Senso-ji Temple and near a charming child's theme park with kids rides that extend through neighbours gardens. Bonkers.
For once I let another agent, do the work on this one rather than negotiate this trip myself, due to its complexity. We hired a private guide to show us around the City and explain its workings, help us change our Rail Vouchers into the 7 Day Japan Rail Pass and make our reservations, which can only be done on arrival, and after that we were more than capable of looking after ourselves, though I gave Owen a guide for the second day through geek central. (Inside Japan Tours did a sterling job.)
Sport is all about Baseball, with full stadiums for the big City teams, and regular reviews of the U.S. Scene. World Series indeed, where are the Japanese teams? Soccer does have a healthy support but we bypassed it on this occasion as we were lucky enough to get tickets to the Sumo. The stadium is actually regarded as being sacred, seriously. Though what I thought would be a difficult to understand day was eased by English translations everywhere, publications in English, and even an English broadcast available through a hired headset.
A top city, throughly enjoyed, worth a lot longer than the five nights we gave it.
We did overnight prior to our return flight at the Palace Hotel, opposite the Imperial Palace, where the current emperor is still in residence. Located a five minute walk from the station you could not be more central. It was a shame we had to leave at 5am to get the flight the followinh morning.
Access to the City was from Haneda, just 30 minutes from the City Centre by monorail. (Narita is over an hour away.)
Food can be difficult with limited English menus available, though most cafes will have pictures of mocked up versions of their offerings in the window. Seafood is cheap and plentiful, bowls of noodles are on every street corner, in general food was surprisingly very well priced unless you needed to go Western. For example a good steak dinner in touristville will set you back £60 a head. A bowl of food in local gaff will set you back £3 though you may need more than one. Beer is cheap, Kirrin being the best of the local choices, Craft beer will cost the same as at home, though some of the draft beers were disappointing, best to go for the kegged offerings which were more reliable, local wines at dinner around half UK restaurant price.
Of course Tokyo does quirky in spades, bird cafes, cat cafes all the way to the far more disturbing maid cafes. (Being told by a very young girl, dressed as a twelve year old, I was her master, and she was there to please me, was frankly flesh crawling.)
We lost Owen for a day in Akihabra, amongst the Pokemon and other Anime and Manga stores which could extend through five floors of geeky madness, one of them even healthy trading vintage 70's gaming. The local girls were in on the act cramming one store where they could transform themselves into their cartoon heros, complete with a wig and hair design section. The utterly nauseous JPop assaulted you at every corner, with scantily dressed schoolgirls launching into vomit inducing dance routines.
Of course the Japanese cartoon industry has high points as well, the stunning Ghibly museum is just a short train ride out of town, and invites adults and children alike into a surreal world of Art and Imagination. Bookings are needed months in advance to access. (Begin with 'Spirited Away' a truly mind bending fantasy.)
We stayed at The Gate in Akusa, a vibrant local district opposite the Senso-ji Temple and near a charming child's theme park with kids rides that extend through neighbours gardens. Bonkers.
For once I let another agent, do the work on this one rather than negotiate this trip myself, due to its complexity. We hired a private guide to show us around the City and explain its workings, help us change our Rail Vouchers into the 7 Day Japan Rail Pass and make our reservations, which can only be done on arrival, and after that we were more than capable of looking after ourselves, though I gave Owen a guide for the second day through geek central. (Inside Japan Tours did a sterling job.)
Sport is all about Baseball, with full stadiums for the big City teams, and regular reviews of the U.S. Scene. World Series indeed, where are the Japanese teams? Soccer does have a healthy support but we bypassed it on this occasion as we were lucky enough to get tickets to the Sumo. The stadium is actually regarded as being sacred, seriously. Though what I thought would be a difficult to understand day was eased by English translations everywhere, publications in English, and even an English broadcast available through a hired headset.
A top city, throughly enjoyed, worth a lot longer than the five nights we gave it.
We did overnight prior to our return flight at the Palace Hotel, opposite the Imperial Palace, where the current emperor is still in residence. Located a five minute walk from the station you could not be more central. It was a shame we had to leave at 5am to get the flight the followinh morning.
Access to the City was from Haneda, just 30 minutes from the City Centre by monorail. (Narita is over an hour away.)
Matsumoto
Just two and a half hours by rail from Tokyo on a local train, gently shuffling its way through the Japanese Alps sits the lovely Castle town of Matsumoto.
On arrival it felt like a gentle clean, European town that could have been in Holland. Our arrival on a Sunday afternoon gatecrashed a town hard at play, indeed around the corner from the station was a wine festival set up in the town square, with food from all over the globe, we soon joined in. Indeed five minutes up the road was another local gathering of craft stores set up along the riverside where local folks met, chatted, laughed together as buskers formed a tuneful background.
Further up the road was the main site a classic Japanese castle made with black wood. Later that night it came alive under a full moon with a classical concert played with old historical instruments of the period. A genuine goosebumps moment.
The town has a couple of old wooden streets running alongside the river. These open daytime with galleries and antique shops. (Sadly shuttered and closed at night.) The surrounding more modern streets still offered a selection of new age art, and local jewellery.
Totally charming, and would make an excellent choice for a quiet weekend break from Tokyo.
On arrival it felt like a gentle clean, European town that could have been in Holland. Our arrival on a Sunday afternoon gatecrashed a town hard at play, indeed around the corner from the station was a wine festival set up in the town square, with food from all over the globe, we soon joined in. Indeed five minutes up the road was another local gathering of craft stores set up along the riverside where local folks met, chatted, laughed together as buskers formed a tuneful background.
Further up the road was the main site a classic Japanese castle made with black wood. Later that night it came alive under a full moon with a classical concert played with old historical instruments of the period. A genuine goosebumps moment.
The town has a couple of old wooden streets running alongside the river. These open daytime with galleries and antique shops. (Sadly shuttered and closed at night.) The surrounding more modern streets still offered a selection of new age art, and local jewellery.
Totally charming, and would make an excellent choice for a quiet weekend break from Tokyo.
Takayama
A couple of hours by bus from Matsumoto lies Takayama, it makes an amazing ride through the Japanese Alps, and another good base for the region, with access to a number of day trips into the mountains. The town has a couple of streets of wooden houses which are now lunchtime stops and the inevitable souvenir selection.
Two kilometres up the road is Hida-No-Sato, an open air museum of traditional farming houses of the region, these have been painstakingly relocated to the park and thus preserved. The walk back to town can routed via the large Mahikari World Shrine, the global HQ of the Sukyo Mahikari religion. This is one of many quirky new religions that have appeared in Japan since the Second World War. All are welcome and a gentle climb brings you into a huge auditorium where the services take place, in front of oddly one of the biggest fishtanks in the world.
There are a good number of dining options, but beware of pricing for the traditional Hida Beef, a good scout around will find much cheaper versions in local restaurants. 'Suzuya' offers particularly good value in an authentic setting. Also look out for Dom's coffee shop, a local institution.
We stayed in a local Japanese three star, base for several coach parties and a unique experience. Check in starts at 3pm, and not a moment sooner, thus a large queue and wait before accessing your room. We were given a locker for our shoes, with the instructions in Japanese only. Rooms of course had the bedding on the floor, tatami matting, and our uniform. Yes you are expected to change into your Japanese jammies, which all the Asian guests do automatically.
Once we had recovered from the shock it all seemed to work, and I found a lovely outdoor onsen on the top floor, no tattoo ruled waived for Westerners, but a strict naked only policy, even in the communal areas. So a large chunk of the afternoon was spent boiling in the hot mountain fresh water, with a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains.
The final treat was 'Midnight Noodles' Yup the whole hotel jumps into life at 22.30 when the restaurant reopens for a noodle snack. You arrive and are given your order number by a large jolly chef who controls the show in Cantonese, Japanese and English. Eventually you receive a complimentary bowl of noodles in a beef broth. With entire room dressed in the same jammies it did rather feel like a prison camp. Very odd
Two kilometres up the road is Hida-No-Sato, an open air museum of traditional farming houses of the region, these have been painstakingly relocated to the park and thus preserved. The walk back to town can routed via the large Mahikari World Shrine, the global HQ of the Sukyo Mahikari religion. This is one of many quirky new religions that have appeared in Japan since the Second World War. All are welcome and a gentle climb brings you into a huge auditorium where the services take place, in front of oddly one of the biggest fishtanks in the world.
There are a good number of dining options, but beware of pricing for the traditional Hida Beef, a good scout around will find much cheaper versions in local restaurants. 'Suzuya' offers particularly good value in an authentic setting. Also look out for Dom's coffee shop, a local institution.
We stayed in a local Japanese three star, base for several coach parties and a unique experience. Check in starts at 3pm, and not a moment sooner, thus a large queue and wait before accessing your room. We were given a locker for our shoes, with the instructions in Japanese only. Rooms of course had the bedding on the floor, tatami matting, and our uniform. Yes you are expected to change into your Japanese jammies, which all the Asian guests do automatically.
Once we had recovered from the shock it all seemed to work, and I found a lovely outdoor onsen on the top floor, no tattoo ruled waived for Westerners, but a strict naked only policy, even in the communal areas. So a large chunk of the afternoon was spent boiling in the hot mountain fresh water, with a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains.
The final treat was 'Midnight Noodles' Yup the whole hotel jumps into life at 22.30 when the restaurant reopens for a noodle snack. You arrive and are given your order number by a large jolly chef who controls the show in Cantonese, Japanese and English. Eventually you receive a complimentary bowl of noodles in a beef broth. With entire room dressed in the same jammies it did rather feel like a prison camp. Very odd
Kanazawa
After a two night stay in Takayama it was time for another bus ride, changing in the traditional village of Shirakawa-gõ. An hour is enough to cover this Hida village with its traditional buildings. Onwards and away from the mountains to roll into Kanazawa for just a brief overnight on the Sea of Japan.
This is a busy very modern City but once again just scratch below the surface for an insite into the past. One minute you are on a very busy American style fashion street, but just five minutes walk away is the Old Samurai district, or head in the opposite direction for parks, museums and the dramatic castle remains. Very green, very civilised.
This is a busy very modern City but once again just scratch below the surface for an insite into the past. One minute you are on a very busy American style fashion street, but just five minutes walk away is the Old Samurai district, or head in the opposite direction for parks, museums and the dramatic castle remains. Very green, very civilised.
Hiroshima/Miyajima
Hiroshima is just a 90 minute journey from Osaka on the Shinkansen. Thus a day trip from Kyoto, easy for the City but too much of a long day to visit both the City and Miyajima Island, the other must see in this part of the country. We decided to base on the island for two nights, which was never really going to be enough time to explore the area properly.
Once in Hiroshima you catch a local train to connect to the 15 minute ferry ride to the Island. Allow an hour from the City centre to Miyajima. We arrived on a misty rainy afternoon which only made the whole experience even more mystical.
The Torii Gate of the Itsukushima-jinja is the main focus of attention and one of the most recognisable sites of Japan. Inevitably the Island is overrun with day trippers, but settles into a peaceful harmony once they go home in the evening. The whole area resembles a Japanese St Ives in the day time, with endless coffee shops and souvenir opportunities. Add the charming addition of the local deer who replace the seagulls as the bold scavengers seeking a feed. It also a great hiking centre. Once the crowds go home few businesses stay open and the main port becomes a ghost town, with only one bar opportunity run by a grumpy American who does not appreciate drinks only orders.
Onwards to Hiroshima City, a truly haunting experience, especially as the main site, The A-Bomb Dome, is in the very center of the City, and right opposite a tram stop. It was quiet a hot day with cloudless skies, similar weather indeed to that which sentenced the City to cruelest act ever in the history of humanity. The dome is surrounded by volunteer guides offering a plethora of literature on the event. Crossing the bridge to the Peace Park, an area put aside for memorials, we made our way to the museum, which leaves little to the imagination.
We thought it appropriate to see a bit more of the City and visited the Old Castle which has been rebuilt externally, but left empty inside with the exception of the few trees which incredibly survived the explosion.
The City is now a bright, thoroughly modern metropolis, with a huge shopping center on two levels. The evening was very lively as the local baseball team were playing, and a vast number of fans were flooding out of the station as we headed home.
Back on the Island our Ryokan included dinner in the rate, a complete face your fears combination of traditional Japanese food including snails (Er ok actually), Eel (edible with some butter) and Octopus. (Awful)
Once in Hiroshima you catch a local train to connect to the 15 minute ferry ride to the Island. Allow an hour from the City centre to Miyajima. We arrived on a misty rainy afternoon which only made the whole experience even more mystical.
The Torii Gate of the Itsukushima-jinja is the main focus of attention and one of the most recognisable sites of Japan. Inevitably the Island is overrun with day trippers, but settles into a peaceful harmony once they go home in the evening. The whole area resembles a Japanese St Ives in the day time, with endless coffee shops and souvenir opportunities. Add the charming addition of the local deer who replace the seagulls as the bold scavengers seeking a feed. It also a great hiking centre. Once the crowds go home few businesses stay open and the main port becomes a ghost town, with only one bar opportunity run by a grumpy American who does not appreciate drinks only orders.
Onwards to Hiroshima City, a truly haunting experience, especially as the main site, The A-Bomb Dome, is in the very center of the City, and right opposite a tram stop. It was quiet a hot day with cloudless skies, similar weather indeed to that which sentenced the City to cruelest act ever in the history of humanity. The dome is surrounded by volunteer guides offering a plethora of literature on the event. Crossing the bridge to the Peace Park, an area put aside for memorials, we made our way to the museum, which leaves little to the imagination.
We thought it appropriate to see a bit more of the City and visited the Old Castle which has been rebuilt externally, but left empty inside with the exception of the few trees which incredibly survived the explosion.
The City is now a bright, thoroughly modern metropolis, with a huge shopping center on two levels. The evening was very lively as the local baseball team were playing, and a vast number of fans were flooding out of the station as we headed home.
Back on the Island our Ryokan included dinner in the rate, a complete face your fears combination of traditional Japanese food including snails (Er ok actually), Eel (edible with some butter) and Octopus. (Awful)
Kyoto
A City of considerable contrast. It does pull a huge number of visitors particularly to the big four temples, (Kinkaku-ji, Gingaku-ji, Sanju-sangen Do and Fushimi-inari Shrine.) There are around 1400 others, so it can be a good move to aim at the smaller temples to avoid the crowds.
The other tourist trap is the Gion (Geisha district) however the side streets off the main tourist avenue (Hanamikoji Dori) still make great exploring especially at night when the lanterns are lit. This indicates a place of entertainment, if they display a small black plaque they are a genuine Geisha establishment and most definitely closed to foreigners, strictly invitation only. Beware of rip offs North of Shijo Dori, this is a crowded bar area, with some buildings hosting at least five establishments on different floors. I have head stories of £400 bar bills for a simple visit. You can however see the Geisha trainees (Maiko) perform most evenings at Gion Corner Theatre, tickets on the door from half an hour before performance, usually at six and seven in the evenings. No advance tickets are sold prior at the venue.
We based at The Screen Hotel, a nice boutique property www.screen-hotel.jp/en with each of its 13 rooms designed individually by a different artist. Quirky indeed. The location was great, right opposite the Imperial Palace on Maruta-machi Dori. A cool, laid back area full of antique stores, new age clothing shops, and small dining establishments from around the world. It is even possible to buy unhealthy food, brilliant. Also very well connected for buses. (You pay when you get off. Day tickets are a bargain.)
Out and about two lovely areas are the Path of Philosophy in Higashiyama, a canal walk linking a number of temples lined with alternative coffee stops and new age shops. Moving to the other side of the City the Arashiyama district sits at the base of the nearby hills, and is surrounded by forests. You will need to get away from the main tourist drag to fully appreciate, but this in itself is pure entertainment, check out the foot spa at the end of the station platform.
On the subject of trains there is a very cute line running along the nearby river (The Romantic Train), if you board at Kameoka on the JR (Sagano Line) network and get off at Arashiyama Torokko Station you will be right next to the Bamboo Forest and be able to walk back to Arashiyama Station on the Randen Tram Line, which runs directly into the City and has some classic old trams in service.
Rather than waste time in the souvenir shops downtown there are floors of real bargains at the Kyoto Handicraft Centre, http://kyotohandicraftcenter.com. A Yukata, Japanese dressing gown will set you back no more than £30, a snip. A complete library of English language books from Bonsai through to bar guides for Tokyo.
On our first night the temple opposite hosted a jazz evening to a local very appreciative crowd, typical oddball Kyoto. It is a city for taking your time and just strolling, four nights was never going to be enough.
The other tourist trap is the Gion (Geisha district) however the side streets off the main tourist avenue (Hanamikoji Dori) still make great exploring especially at night when the lanterns are lit. This indicates a place of entertainment, if they display a small black plaque they are a genuine Geisha establishment and most definitely closed to foreigners, strictly invitation only. Beware of rip offs North of Shijo Dori, this is a crowded bar area, with some buildings hosting at least five establishments on different floors. I have head stories of £400 bar bills for a simple visit. You can however see the Geisha trainees (Maiko) perform most evenings at Gion Corner Theatre, tickets on the door from half an hour before performance, usually at six and seven in the evenings. No advance tickets are sold prior at the venue.
We based at The Screen Hotel, a nice boutique property www.screen-hotel.jp/en with each of its 13 rooms designed individually by a different artist. Quirky indeed. The location was great, right opposite the Imperial Palace on Maruta-machi Dori. A cool, laid back area full of antique stores, new age clothing shops, and small dining establishments from around the world. It is even possible to buy unhealthy food, brilliant. Also very well connected for buses. (You pay when you get off. Day tickets are a bargain.)
Out and about two lovely areas are the Path of Philosophy in Higashiyama, a canal walk linking a number of temples lined with alternative coffee stops and new age shops. Moving to the other side of the City the Arashiyama district sits at the base of the nearby hills, and is surrounded by forests. You will need to get away from the main tourist drag to fully appreciate, but this in itself is pure entertainment, check out the foot spa at the end of the station platform.
On the subject of trains there is a very cute line running along the nearby river (The Romantic Train), if you board at Kameoka on the JR (Sagano Line) network and get off at Arashiyama Torokko Station you will be right next to the Bamboo Forest and be able to walk back to Arashiyama Station on the Randen Tram Line, which runs directly into the City and has some classic old trams in service.
Rather than waste time in the souvenir shops downtown there are floors of real bargains at the Kyoto Handicraft Centre, http://kyotohandicraftcenter.com. A Yukata, Japanese dressing gown will set you back no more than £30, a snip. A complete library of English language books from Bonsai through to bar guides for Tokyo.
On our first night the temple opposite hosted a jazz evening to a local very appreciative crowd, typical oddball Kyoto. It is a city for taking your time and just strolling, four nights was never going to be enough.
Colombia (March 2015)
Zona Cafetera
Just 35 minutes flight from troubled Bogota is a very different Colombia. A very laid back land of Cowboys, Coffee plantations, endless vistas of bamboo, banana and plantain trees. The area around the Valle de Cocora resembles a sub tropical Switzerland. It is a major hiking and horse riding area following trails high into the cloud forests above. Greens seem a different darker green than I have ever seen before and the wildlife spectacular, it is a bird watchers paradise.
The best Accommodations are Coffee Fincas, allowing you to stay on their farms and enjoy their facilities. I stayed three nights at Villa Finca Nora, and was their only guest on one of those, having the run of the whole property to myself. I sat in awe watching the wildlife and listening to the over excited family of parakeets whose home was at the bottom of the Garden.
The most atmospheric town was Filandia, where cowboys sit outside their salon bars, and the whole main square resembles a Western Movie set. It is still an authentic working town. Most of the tourists in this area prefer Salento, closer to the start of the Valle de Cocora trail. The town is full of bars, shops and restaurants, and has good accommodation choices. Closer to the trails it is camping only, which most younger Colombians prefer.
Three nights should cover this area well, and it makes a great add on to a Cartagena break. Allow half a day for a substantial hike in the schedule.
The slide show below is considerably enhanced by clicking the music track below and switching on your sound.
Bogota
Is an enormous, confusing, dirty and edgy City. Some may prefer to pass straight through, with direct Avianca flights from London arriving at 04.00am, this a considered possibility. The real gems of Colombia are elsewhere, and very much worth investigating. For those who wish to stop over, and I do think it is worth a couple of nights, the options are either Zona Rosa area, (Modern, trendy, with the best dining venues.) or The Candelabria, which offers a more traditional part of the City hugging up against the Mountains.
I stayed in the latter so can only comment on this area. The Candelaria is one of the oldest parts of the City, leading up from The Plaza de Bolivar, the main city square, with some houses over 300 years old. A warren of small streets and alleys containing a very limited choice of bars and restaurants, you are more likely to find snack venues, hamburger bars and the like. Probably best to be off the streets by ten, there are some shady characters around. Although I did not have any problems here I did keep within a dozen blocks of my hotel.
Be aware Sundays can be unpredictable in the City, a large part of the Candelaria is closed to cars as locals take to the streets on bikes with their children, and enjoy a morning stroll. Don't expect to find much open in the evenings, bars cease serving alcohol, if they are open at all.
Must sees are the Museo del Oro (The Museum of Gold, a huge collection of artefacts, and a history lesson at the same time, English translations available.) and the Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara (A stunning former church, now a museum, with remarkable paintings.) Also worth a look is the Museo Botero, an art gallery devoted to the substantial works of the eccentric Fernando Botero. It is worth noting most museums and galleries allow cameras, but no flash. Many tourists ascend to the Monestario, though there are currently severe warnings of muggers in this area and it is not regarded as safe. Outside of the City the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira, 50km to the North is worth a visit, hotels can organise tours.
Transport across town is dreadful, and the public transport system the TransMileno is dangerously overcrowded, and a hive of activity for pickpockets. It is a super fast bus system set up in special traffic lanes, as the Government could not afford a safe secure Metro system. Pushing and shoving to get on and off the buses is not for the fainthearted, and it is very easy to get lost. Taxis are thus the only alternative and can carry their own risks.
I did manage to get to a big Soccer game in the City bringing together Santa Fe and FC Deportivo Cali. Tickets can be bought on the day at the stadium, the box office will not assist prior and guide you to a small sports shop over a mile away, which took me an hour to find it. Thanks for your help chaps, shabby to say the least.
I stayed at the rather lovely Hotel De la Opera. Sadly under used with both hotel bar and restaurant sitting empty. The restaurant produced one of the best breakfasts I have ever had on the road, more of a traditional three course Colombian lunch, which gave me the opportunity to taste local delicacies each day. (Alongside an egg station, and cakes and fruits.) Thus I tested the evening dining experience which was excellent. A shame it sat empty, and total credit to the staff for really looking after a late solo diner, and not making it a rushed experience.
I stayed in the latter so can only comment on this area. The Candelaria is one of the oldest parts of the City, leading up from The Plaza de Bolivar, the main city square, with some houses over 300 years old. A warren of small streets and alleys containing a very limited choice of bars and restaurants, you are more likely to find snack venues, hamburger bars and the like. Probably best to be off the streets by ten, there are some shady characters around. Although I did not have any problems here I did keep within a dozen blocks of my hotel.
Be aware Sundays can be unpredictable in the City, a large part of the Candelaria is closed to cars as locals take to the streets on bikes with their children, and enjoy a morning stroll. Don't expect to find much open in the evenings, bars cease serving alcohol, if they are open at all.
Must sees are the Museo del Oro (The Museum of Gold, a huge collection of artefacts, and a history lesson at the same time, English translations available.) and the Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara (A stunning former church, now a museum, with remarkable paintings.) Also worth a look is the Museo Botero, an art gallery devoted to the substantial works of the eccentric Fernando Botero. It is worth noting most museums and galleries allow cameras, but no flash. Many tourists ascend to the Monestario, though there are currently severe warnings of muggers in this area and it is not regarded as safe. Outside of the City the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira, 50km to the North is worth a visit, hotels can organise tours.
Transport across town is dreadful, and the public transport system the TransMileno is dangerously overcrowded, and a hive of activity for pickpockets. It is a super fast bus system set up in special traffic lanes, as the Government could not afford a safe secure Metro system. Pushing and shoving to get on and off the buses is not for the fainthearted, and it is very easy to get lost. Taxis are thus the only alternative and can carry their own risks.
I did manage to get to a big Soccer game in the City bringing together Santa Fe and FC Deportivo Cali. Tickets can be bought on the day at the stadium, the box office will not assist prior and guide you to a small sports shop over a mile away, which took me an hour to find it. Thanks for your help chaps, shabby to say the least.
I stayed at the rather lovely Hotel De la Opera. Sadly under used with both hotel bar and restaurant sitting empty. The restaurant produced one of the best breakfasts I have ever had on the road, more of a traditional three course Colombian lunch, which gave me the opportunity to taste local delicacies each day. (Alongside an egg station, and cakes and fruits.) Thus I tested the evening dining experience which was excellent. A shame it sat empty, and total credit to the staff for really looking after a late solo diner, and not making it a rushed experience.
Cartagena
I bet you didn't know there was a Gabriel Garcia Marquez theme park did you? ( If you don't know who he is you I suggest you get reading, you are in for a treat.) Cartagena is a wonderful, timeless old colonial City, beautifully preserved, and a really imaginative holiday destination.
The old town is a dreamy collection of streets of centuries old houses, with balconies covered in flowers dripping down into the streets. They have been turned into hotels, restaurants, shops or still sit in private ownership. It was here Gabi wrote some of his finest works. It first came to my attention when my favourite travel writer Robert Elms bought a house here. Hang on that's in Columbia isn't it dangerous. I will come to that in a minute.
The city sits surrounded on all sides by its walls, 'Las Murallas', built to protect it from pirate attacks and er The British, and is dramatic to approach. There are some lovely hotels here. I stayed at the Alfiz, (right in the heart of the City.) I was lucky enough to be upgraded to what was in effect a two bedroom apartment, with its own balcony, and my wishlist hammock. I only wish I could have stayed a few more nights.
Budget travellers will find a good backpacker vibe in Getsemani, outside the main city walls but no more than a 20 minute walk to the old town, but this part of town would I am sure have plenty of its own character.
Beach bums head to Bocagrande, around the bay, a Miami type stretch of sand, with a more local scene behind it. Plenty of cheap accommodation can be found here as well, but you really could be anywhere in Latin America, or Florida for that matter. The beach isn't that great, and the waves unforgiving.
Nightlife is centred on a number of Salsa bars, and of course the dining scene. Donde Fidel in the main Plaza has its own DJ thumping out sounds till the early hours with some really active dancing, or just sit at the bar and watch the action hot up. Alternatively take a table outside and people watch, amusing as the night girls also treat this as their patch. Also check the Clock Bar, a sports bar, for a wide beer choice. Café Del Mar is a cool spot, a pop up bar high on the castle walls, playing chill out music and picking up a cooling breeze at the same time. Avoid The Havana Club in Getsemani, dreadful cocktails at rip off prices with the same three videos on repeat.
Dining options are limitless, it even has its own curry house. The Best deal is at El Santissimo, offering a £30 three course deal with open bar. Get in. I tested it and went through cocktails, a great three course dinner with quality free flow wine, coffee and a brandy. Food is in general probably half the price than at home, steaks are superb. ( Unless like me you sat down in a Steakhouse and ordered only to realise that they had Simply Dead on repeat on the video. I still can't get that little Yorkshire shit out of my head. Catchy in the same way as a bad dose of the flu.) If you like Sushi you will love ceviche, a Caribbean take on raw fish. Wine is what you would expect to pay in the UK. Local beers are palatable at under £2 a bottle. The Bogota Beer Company claims to be a specialist microbrewer, but always has a very limited range of tasteless, bland cold beers, if they can be bothered to open at all. Don't bother.
Be cautious of taking organised tours as these are usually only in Spanish, despite what they tell you. The trip to the Mangroves for birdwatching in the evening is quite nice. Don't do the day time one, there is little to see and half the time is spent having lunch, which is a complete waste of the journey.
So security! Is it safe? Certainly. OK there are 2000 police and security based here, but from the smiles on their faces, this is the dream posting. Late night walks through the town will only find random musicians playing in the squares to the delight of passers by, along with local card schools, the occasional bum fast asleep and an odd burro or two off duty.
A dream of a destination which only exceeded my expectations.
World Cup 2014
Reports in the main section of the blog with photos...
|
|
Rügen (September 2013)
In an effort to rediscover a sense of adventure and add a bit more onto recent trips to Germany I recently bought a Rough Guide and sat down to try to find somewhere interesting to head prior to my next Schalke game. Eventually I came up with idea of returning East for the first time since just after reunification. The Island of Rügen appealed, especially as it is so difficult to get too. So just for the Craic, I bought myself a single ticket to Berlin, and after an overnight stop, took the lunchtime train to Binz, a four hour rail journey North. I was disappointed not to have the time to visit Stralsund which looked interesting from the train, but made Binz on time for a three night stay.
It is a favourite German resort, and is packed in the mid summer season, then goes very quiet, so I hit it at just the right time in mid September. Cut off from the West during its time in the DDR it avoided the socialist building atrocities of the post war eta, and the whole seafront is dotted with old historic homes all painted white, with balconies overlooking the sea. Some hotels, some private, some attractive apartments.
Just down the road Prora tells a different story. (See picture on main blog!) When the Nazis came to power they played a smart card to reward their followers, party members could apply for a holiday at government expense. 3000 beds were put aside in Rügen to accommodate this and applications flooded in. Soon of course there were not enough beds and the planners got involved. A vast stretch of beach was assigned and up went a massive holiday camp, which was just being completed when things started to go a tad wrong and the whole project was abandoned.
The Soviets found the whole development and used it as a military base during the cold war. It now sits abandoned, vast shells of empty tower blocks,
by a lovely sandy beach. It is now home an excellent museum on wartime history, and the soviet period which followed. Oh and with a nod to history a
backpacker hostel.
Half an hour North lies the Jasmund Forest with the local landmark, The Königsstuhl, a cliff of pure white chalk jutting out into the sea. (Think of a smaller White Cliffs of Dover, with similar significance.) however Dover does not have a UNESCO preserved forest sitting on the top. It makes for superb hiking, especially in Autumn as the foliage changes.
Another little quirk around Binz is a small gauge stream railway running between Lauterbach and Göhren for 24 kilometres. Rasender Roland, as it is
now called, used to run throughout the whole of Rügen and considering the areas recent history it has done well to survive. Oddly services run through
the evening, and its distinct haunting whistles travel some distance at night. In the quieter months the restaurants and bars have to lay off their staff who
of course have no other employment in this now very quiet little town. Once again the younger generation end up moving away, leaving Binz with a high
elderly population nursing retired visitors. Like it quiet, this is the place. No parties here out of season. Though there is a nice brewpub to while away an
evening, as usual discovered on the last night.
It is a favourite German resort, and is packed in the mid summer season, then goes very quiet, so I hit it at just the right time in mid September. Cut off from the West during its time in the DDR it avoided the socialist building atrocities of the post war eta, and the whole seafront is dotted with old historic homes all painted white, with balconies overlooking the sea. Some hotels, some private, some attractive apartments.
Just down the road Prora tells a different story. (See picture on main blog!) When the Nazis came to power they played a smart card to reward their followers, party members could apply for a holiday at government expense. 3000 beds were put aside in Rügen to accommodate this and applications flooded in. Soon of course there were not enough beds and the planners got involved. A vast stretch of beach was assigned and up went a massive holiday camp, which was just being completed when things started to go a tad wrong and the whole project was abandoned.
The Soviets found the whole development and used it as a military base during the cold war. It now sits abandoned, vast shells of empty tower blocks,
by a lovely sandy beach. It is now home an excellent museum on wartime history, and the soviet period which followed. Oh and with a nod to history a
backpacker hostel.
Half an hour North lies the Jasmund Forest with the local landmark, The Königsstuhl, a cliff of pure white chalk jutting out into the sea. (Think of a smaller White Cliffs of Dover, with similar significance.) however Dover does not have a UNESCO preserved forest sitting on the top. It makes for superb hiking, especially in Autumn as the foliage changes.
Another little quirk around Binz is a small gauge stream railway running between Lauterbach and Göhren for 24 kilometres. Rasender Roland, as it is
now called, used to run throughout the whole of Rügen and considering the areas recent history it has done well to survive. Oddly services run through
the evening, and its distinct haunting whistles travel some distance at night. In the quieter months the restaurants and bars have to lay off their staff who
of course have no other employment in this now very quiet little town. Once again the younger generation end up moving away, leaving Binz with a high
elderly population nursing retired visitors. Like it quiet, this is the place. No parties here out of season. Though there is a nice brewpub to while away an
evening, as usual discovered on the last night.
Hangzhou (March 2013)
Whereas Shanghai disappointed in many ways, Hangzhou was a triumph. After having a very entertaining rail trip, being propelled along from Shanghai in just over 40 minutes at 300km per hour in a very sleek new train, I arrived at what appeared to be another dull industrial city.
Some quick thinking was required to dodge the taxi hustlers offering a quick journey to my hotel for 600RMB (Official Taxis are 30) as soon as I got off the train. A little investigation revealed the official rank around the side of the station. However the Chinese inability to form anything resembling a queue required some first year rugby skills to push, shove and gouge my way to the front of the queue, after 30 minutes of clawing action.
The city appeared in a different light once we got to the lakeside road; a very different China soon started to appear. This was chocolate box China, an oriental Lake District. As we crawled along in the neverending traffic, the beautiful West Lake began to appear.
I found my way to the Shangri La, right on the far end of the lakeside. The hotel itself was a little tired and in need of refurbishment, but lies in attractive grounds and its staff are still of a very high standard. I managed to get a lake view room, which was appreciated.
Two nights here were in no way enough. This is a great destination for hikers and there is lots to see and do around the lake area. A short walk from the hotel is Quyuan Lotus Garden, a beautiful park laid out in classic oriental style, even more special in spring with its peach blossom in bloom. A causeway built almost a thousand years ago divides the lake in two and makes a great walk. The area is besieged with tourist groups, running in ever deceasing circles, each with their own little flags. It rather added to the oriental colour.
The main evening entertainment is a performance of ‘Impressions of the West Lake’, a large sound and light show with musicians, singers and drummers. I deemed the £40 entrance fee far too much, having watched the dress rehearsal gratis in the afternoon, and heard the piped music, which for me made a dreamy background to the afternoons wanderings.
There were very few food options around, the best being the Louwailou Restaurant on Gushan Island, a very traditional venue with local fare. I had the beggar’s chicken (roast chicken baked in leaves with minced meat and rice inside). The menu in English and the knife and fork option was appreciated - how do you eat a whole roast chicken with chopsticks? I declined a local buffet the next night. Unidentifiable sludge, eggs and chicken feet were offered before I bolted for the safety of the goat liver gnocchi on the hotel menu (nice actually). For once I was grateful for Starbucks and KFC, which made recognisable lunch options.
A bus runs right around the lake for tourists and enables access to most of the main sites. A visit to ‘Peak Flying from Afar’ with its 300 plus Buddhist statues laid out in a series of grottos, and its neighbour the Lingyin Temple, made a worthwhile morning. Sadly, the tour disintegrated in the afternoon to visiting a series of shopping opportunities. I would suggest avoiding the ‘Tea at Dragon Well’, a very poor attraction in what was an attractive hilly area.
Hangzhou makes a great base for getting further out into the countryside. If only I had had the time.
Some quick thinking was required to dodge the taxi hustlers offering a quick journey to my hotel for 600RMB (Official Taxis are 30) as soon as I got off the train. A little investigation revealed the official rank around the side of the station. However the Chinese inability to form anything resembling a queue required some first year rugby skills to push, shove and gouge my way to the front of the queue, after 30 minutes of clawing action.
The city appeared in a different light once we got to the lakeside road; a very different China soon started to appear. This was chocolate box China, an oriental Lake District. As we crawled along in the neverending traffic, the beautiful West Lake began to appear.
I found my way to the Shangri La, right on the far end of the lakeside. The hotel itself was a little tired and in need of refurbishment, but lies in attractive grounds and its staff are still of a very high standard. I managed to get a lake view room, which was appreciated.
Two nights here were in no way enough. This is a great destination for hikers and there is lots to see and do around the lake area. A short walk from the hotel is Quyuan Lotus Garden, a beautiful park laid out in classic oriental style, even more special in spring with its peach blossom in bloom. A causeway built almost a thousand years ago divides the lake in two and makes a great walk. The area is besieged with tourist groups, running in ever deceasing circles, each with their own little flags. It rather added to the oriental colour.
The main evening entertainment is a performance of ‘Impressions of the West Lake’, a large sound and light show with musicians, singers and drummers. I deemed the £40 entrance fee far too much, having watched the dress rehearsal gratis in the afternoon, and heard the piped music, which for me made a dreamy background to the afternoons wanderings.
There were very few food options around, the best being the Louwailou Restaurant on Gushan Island, a very traditional venue with local fare. I had the beggar’s chicken (roast chicken baked in leaves with minced meat and rice inside). The menu in English and the knife and fork option was appreciated - how do you eat a whole roast chicken with chopsticks? I declined a local buffet the next night. Unidentifiable sludge, eggs and chicken feet were offered before I bolted for the safety of the goat liver gnocchi on the hotel menu (nice actually). For once I was grateful for Starbucks and KFC, which made recognisable lunch options.
A bus runs right around the lake for tourists and enables access to most of the main sites. A visit to ‘Peak Flying from Afar’ with its 300 plus Buddhist statues laid out in a series of grottos, and its neighbour the Lingyin Temple, made a worthwhile morning. Sadly, the tour disintegrated in the afternoon to visiting a series of shopping opportunities. I would suggest avoiding the ‘Tea at Dragon Well’, a very poor attraction in what was an attractive hilly area.
Hangzhou makes a great base for getting further out into the countryside. If only I had had the time.
Shanghai (March 2013)
No doubt about it, I found Shanghai hard work - a city which can delight and aggravate in equal measure. Sadly, China continues a policy of build, build, build, and demolishes a lot of history when it does. The old French Concession area was a lot more developed than I had thought, with its shiny new towers all around. A good guide book and a map, however, soon uncovered some treasures. The first was my accommodation, the Quintet (http://quintet-shanghai.com/). This was a wonderful old Shanghai house right in the heart of the French Concession. I stayed in the Oriental Pearl Room... well, okay then, suite. It consisted of a bedroom opening into a conservatory, which gave me plenty of light and space. It was full of atmosphere. It was nice to spend some evenings with a glass of wine and some music, and just drink in the surroundings. The booking procedure is a little quirky; you put down a deposit via Paypal, and on arrival pay the whole of your stay in cash. It does all work, however, and the deposit reappeared in full very quickly after my stay.
Only ten minutes away were a good choice of restaurants, traditional and western, and yes OK, a microbrew pub, which was very good even if it was a sports theme bar. Add another five minutes to access the Cotton Club for some jazz blues, and I was well set up. (Free entry, though around £7 a pint for draft beers.)
Everything on the Maglev (airport train) and the Metro was in English, making my arrival far easier than I had imagined, even if I had to go through a seemingly pointless bag check every time I accessed the system. An all area pass costs about £1.50 a day.
The weather was a surprise, sadly; 23C on arrival plummeting to around 6C the next day and well into freezing temperatures at night. It failed to recover much above 11C the whole week. I was dressed for summer and ended up in multiple layers and seriously contemplating buying a proper winter coat.
The main drawback was the street hustle around Peoples Square, the Nanjing Road and Yuyuan Gardens. It came in two forms: the usual, “You want massage? I have beautiful girl.” and thrusting a card with a picture of what would appear always to be the same woman, or trying to engage you in a conversation commencing with, “Will you take my photo?” with idea of conning you to visit a ridiculously overpriced teahouse. It was incessant and spoilt any visits in the area.
I missed Facebook initially, which is banned, but it actually probably saved me a lot of time sending pointless messages, and allowed me to crack on and do something useful. Regular email and texts seemed to work some of the time. But my host at the Quintet seemed to spend a long time with our passports at the police station, giving all a reminder we are still very much in a police state.
Negotiating prices was another difficulty. Pricing for souvenirs seemed wildly varied, more so than anywhere else I have travelled to. Even the good old ‘offer 30%’ rule seemed overpriced with some sellers, the same set of beads costing between £225 and the £25 I managed to get them for.
One little tip not in the guidebooks is travelling on Metro Line 4, which runs at least part of its route overground. This gives you a great look over some of the lesser known parts of the City, and some really interesting looking areas. I only found this out on my last day, thus did not have a chance to stop off and investigate, but there did appear to be some very traditional areas yet to be bathed in concrete.
A trip to the old town did bring some delights. A Nunnery, where despite forbidding signs outlawing photography, I found the Nuns having great delight with their new I Phones with a wandering moggie acting as muse. The Old Shanghai Teahouse was a gem seemingly untouched since the 1940’s offerering a little tea ceremony and dumplings for around £10 at lunchtime. Bargain really. Note similar named businesses operate in the area, the address here is,e No.385 Fangbing Middle Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai, China (Yu Garden Area)
On the West entrance to Old Street is the Cangbaolou, The Treasure Collecting Tower. An antiques market which consists of four floors of family memorabilia, stamps, old soviet cameras, and so forth. You name it’s here. I found a beautiful old gong, a collection of Mao’s Little Red Books, an opium pipe, Jade, collections of stamps and old coins. I appeared to be the only westerner present; there were no English signs outside, in fact nothing to guide you in. This was China at its best, I spent hours browsing and negotiating. A treasure chest if ever there was one.
Another night was devoted to a street eats tour. (http://untourshanghai.com/) £40 for an expat guided tour around the good and not so good of the street markets. Kyle, who led the tour was a great host and spent a good while explaining the street etiquette involved, which seems to be to bag a table with one vendor and buy a couple of items. You can then make a feast of everything else you have picked up along the way at the same table. This tour will save you money quickly, as Shanghai is very expensive.
Chinese ethnic food was another avenue to explore, Uighur, Manchurian, Hunanese, Yunnanese and Sihuan to name a few. I plumped for an evening in an Uighur venue, (Xinjiang Fengwei), for black beer and freshly roasted lamb. Served with chop sticks of course?. It was a lively venue with dancing and singing. These friendly people originate from the Kazak border. (Borat where are you?)
The atmosphere of Old Shanghai seems long gone, but a visit to the excellent museum, at the base of the Pearl Oriental Tower, was worthwhile. It offers a great insight into days gone by. Oddly a visit to the Peace Hotel, now owned by Fairmont, is a another reflection into the past. The hotel still has a very 20-30’s style and its bar has a regular Jazz band playing tunes of that period. (Average age of the musicians is 77)
Only ten minutes away were a good choice of restaurants, traditional and western, and yes OK, a microbrew pub, which was very good even if it was a sports theme bar. Add another five minutes to access the Cotton Club for some jazz blues, and I was well set up. (Free entry, though around £7 a pint for draft beers.)
Everything on the Maglev (airport train) and the Metro was in English, making my arrival far easier than I had imagined, even if I had to go through a seemingly pointless bag check every time I accessed the system. An all area pass costs about £1.50 a day.
The weather was a surprise, sadly; 23C on arrival plummeting to around 6C the next day and well into freezing temperatures at night. It failed to recover much above 11C the whole week. I was dressed for summer and ended up in multiple layers and seriously contemplating buying a proper winter coat.
The main drawback was the street hustle around Peoples Square, the Nanjing Road and Yuyuan Gardens. It came in two forms: the usual, “You want massage? I have beautiful girl.” and thrusting a card with a picture of what would appear always to be the same woman, or trying to engage you in a conversation commencing with, “Will you take my photo?” with idea of conning you to visit a ridiculously overpriced teahouse. It was incessant and spoilt any visits in the area.
I missed Facebook initially, which is banned, but it actually probably saved me a lot of time sending pointless messages, and allowed me to crack on and do something useful. Regular email and texts seemed to work some of the time. But my host at the Quintet seemed to spend a long time with our passports at the police station, giving all a reminder we are still very much in a police state.
Negotiating prices was another difficulty. Pricing for souvenirs seemed wildly varied, more so than anywhere else I have travelled to. Even the good old ‘offer 30%’ rule seemed overpriced with some sellers, the same set of beads costing between £225 and the £25 I managed to get them for.
One little tip not in the guidebooks is travelling on Metro Line 4, which runs at least part of its route overground. This gives you a great look over some of the lesser known parts of the City, and some really interesting looking areas. I only found this out on my last day, thus did not have a chance to stop off and investigate, but there did appear to be some very traditional areas yet to be bathed in concrete.
A trip to the old town did bring some delights. A Nunnery, where despite forbidding signs outlawing photography, I found the Nuns having great delight with their new I Phones with a wandering moggie acting as muse. The Old Shanghai Teahouse was a gem seemingly untouched since the 1940’s offerering a little tea ceremony and dumplings for around £10 at lunchtime. Bargain really. Note similar named businesses operate in the area, the address here is,e No.385 Fangbing Middle Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai, China (Yu Garden Area)
On the West entrance to Old Street is the Cangbaolou, The Treasure Collecting Tower. An antiques market which consists of four floors of family memorabilia, stamps, old soviet cameras, and so forth. You name it’s here. I found a beautiful old gong, a collection of Mao’s Little Red Books, an opium pipe, Jade, collections of stamps and old coins. I appeared to be the only westerner present; there were no English signs outside, in fact nothing to guide you in. This was China at its best, I spent hours browsing and negotiating. A treasure chest if ever there was one.
Another night was devoted to a street eats tour. (http://untourshanghai.com/) £40 for an expat guided tour around the good and not so good of the street markets. Kyle, who led the tour was a great host and spent a good while explaining the street etiquette involved, which seems to be to bag a table with one vendor and buy a couple of items. You can then make a feast of everything else you have picked up along the way at the same table. This tour will save you money quickly, as Shanghai is very expensive.
Chinese ethnic food was another avenue to explore, Uighur, Manchurian, Hunanese, Yunnanese and Sihuan to name a few. I plumped for an evening in an Uighur venue, (Xinjiang Fengwei), for black beer and freshly roasted lamb. Served with chop sticks of course?. It was a lively venue with dancing and singing. These friendly people originate from the Kazak border. (Borat where are you?)
The atmosphere of Old Shanghai seems long gone, but a visit to the excellent museum, at the base of the Pearl Oriental Tower, was worthwhile. It offers a great insight into days gone by. Oddly a visit to the Peace Hotel, now owned by Fairmont, is a another reflection into the past. The hotel still has a very 20-30’s style and its bar has a regular Jazz band playing tunes of that period. (Average age of the musicians is 77)