Feb 2022
Some vintage stuff here. Cambodia is starting to reopen post Covid and I understand a lot has changed with the influx of chinese moeny. Kampot is no longer the innocent* playground it once was.
*See Kampot Survival guide.
Some vintage stuff here. Cambodia is starting to reopen post Covid and I understand a lot has changed with the influx of chinese moeny. Kampot is no longer the innocent* playground it once was.
*See Kampot Survival guide.
My Return (November 2017)
Siem Reap has changed, from a small rural town into what feels very much like a big city. Bikes have changed into cars, Pub Street has more Khmer kids partying than Westerners. (In a place where they were not allowed years ago.) It’s a great sight to see, the locals have money and are not shy on spending it.
However my lovely old guest house has lost all character and resembles a cheap Bangkok flop house. The beer garden where I used to stay up to 3am on a Sunday morning for chili frogs legs now demolished. Opposite, a multi million dollar shopping mall. The Old Market dollar noodle stands replaced by pop up bars selling dodgy liquor. Indeed the roads are so busy that crossing them with that old Khmer type swagger is now a dangerous process. The Temple bar owners now seem to own half the City with their familiar branding.
Yet still it feels like coming home. That smell of petrol fumes, prahock and dust is something I have genuinely missed. A few tears as I made my way to Viroths, my new base. (I had noted the original Viroth’s Villa as quite stylish on my sabbatical and hoped one day to use it as a base. The original villa is now under refurbishment, and hopes to re open later this year.) The new hotel is stylish, very retro 50’s, in a style from when Cambodia was a top destination to the French movers and grovers.
The dining scene has improved beyond all measure. Two local chefs, qualified from the famous Paul Dubrule and Sala Bai training schools have combined to open the Embassy Restaurant in Kings Road village, just over the river from the old market, offering a serious degustation menu which celebrates all that is good in the local food scene. Seven courses with wine matching $50. Try also Le Malraux.
Although the former De La Paix, my favourite stay in town, has rebranded under the Hyatt name, the property remains very chic, a remarkable tribute to local history and culture. As the town has become so much busier I will now suggest considering staying a little further out of town. I have mentioned Viroth’s above, also consider Jaya House or Heritage Suites.
Out of town consider Navutu Dreams for an associated Yoga course, or stay in a traditional village, not in a home stay but in a recreation at Phum Baitang. This remarkable concept by Zannier hotels is based around a traditional Khmer village, with each accommodation based on a traditional wooden stilted home. Its 45 villas are surrounded by 8 acres of its own rice paddies and gardens and go as far as having its own in house water buffalo. Yet only 20 minutes from town just past the Phare circus.
The temples are now very crowded, but of course with 90% of visitors spending three days or less, they will hit the big three, (Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, and the Bayon) leaving most of the rest of the park untouched. There are over 40 main temples within the National Park, with many more outside and indeed some still being discovered to this day. Other sites worth a visit are Banteay Srey made in distinct pink sandstone, the moted Bakong in the Roluos group further out of town, Neak Pean on its own island and Phnom Krom for spectacular sunsets.
Away from the lively nightlife and dining scene Phare Circus is now an essential part of the stay. This Battambang troupe are now touring the world with an impressive array of acrobatics, story telling and original music. Book if they are in town, a real must see.
A trip to Siem Reap would not be complete without a visit to Ton Le Sap, the huge lake just fifteen kilometers South of the town. This huge lung expands five fold during the wet season, forcing the water of the Ton Le sap river to reverse direction during the wet season. The most impressive and least visited village is Kampong Khleang, (35 kms away) This is the largest lakeside settlement and even more spectacular in the dry season with its stilted houses sitting up to 10 meters in the air.
Twitchers can a field day organized through the Sam Veasna Centre, the most impressive of these being a visit to Ang Trapaeng Thomor to view the Sarius Cranes best between January and March.
It is a amazing destination, and ridiculously good value, a beer from 40p,still cheaper than water, and the cost of a good glass of wine around £3, half what it cost eight years ago.
I hear there is now a very good creative arts scene in Battambang which may well become an alternative second destination for those wanting to stop longer.
See photo gallery here.
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Khmer dancing.
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Siem Reap notes updated November 2017
Hotels
This collection has been put together from personal experience and feedback.
Park Hyatt
Formerly the De La Paix this stylish property is within an easy walk of the Old Market and Pub Street, (The entertainment centre). Designed in the fashion of a Khmer temple with unique local touches. This choice is the most authentic to local culture and taste. Recently refurbished but still oozes style. ££££
Belmond La Residence d’Angkor (Newly refurbished)
http://www.belmond.com/la-residence-d-angkor-siem-reap/
About a ten minute walk from the Old Town, this riverside choice offers large rooms in an Indonesian style. Huge bathtubs are very welcome in this heat. Al Fresco dining, and an open plan upstairs bar collect what little breeze there is, and can make a nice cool spot in the evening. I have yet to revisit [post the refurb.)
££££
Heritage Suites
https://www.heritagesuiteshotel.com/en/
Small, but very well thought out, and good value against other choices at this level, especially at suite level. It is located a tuc tuc ride away from the Old Market and boasts a unique tours programme.
£££
Shinta Mani (Not personally visited)
http://shintamani.com/resort/
This very well priced choice is now sitting at No 1 on Trip Advisor, so it must me doing something right. I consistently hear of its awards and community contributions.
££££
Navutu Dreams (Not personally visited)
http://navutudreams.com/
Lovingly managed by a well respected colleague from my NGO days, this is a new, Mr and Mrs Smith approved, boutique resort and wellness retreat. A top choice if you are looking for a health programme. A little way out of town.
£££
Phum Bairang
http://phumbaitang.com/
New luxury resort by Zenner designed along the style of a traditional Khmer village. Spacious and very relaxed away from the increasingly busy town. It even grows its own rice and has its own in house water buffalo. Top end luxury in a veru unique concept. Noted Spa.
£££££
Viroths
https://www.viroth-hotel.com/?width=1280&height=1024
If you can possibly conceive of a budget luxury hotel this is it. Superb service and well located just on the other side of the Siem Reap river. Walking distance to town. Great pool, good sized rooms. Look out for the pet cat who enjoys random room inspections. Good tours and excellent drivers.
££
Jaya House (Not personally visited)
http://www.jayahouseriverparksiemreap.com/home
Been getting great reviews here,
££
Temples
The main tours quiet rightly concentrate on the big three
Angkor Wat*:- The main one.
Bayon*:- (In the Angkor Thom group):-Intricate carvings of faces from the past
Ta Prohm* :- Mostly in ruins overgrown by trees. A major film set.
These are covered by most tours in a hot exhausting day which then finishes with a climb up Bakheng* for sunset (Ludicrously overcrowded.)
Others worth doing are
Preah Khan* - In the main temple area, but missed by the main tour groups
Neak Pean* - Unusual and located on its own island, far from the madding crowd.
Bakong* (In the Roluos Group) - 13kms East. Smaller but next to a working Buddhist monastery and a river. Unusually easy to climb.
Banteay Srei* - 32kms North. Although small this is one of the most extraordinary temples in Cambodia. Intricate carvings made in pink stone. (This can make a nice half day in a Tuk Tuk, going through some traditional Khmer villages.)
Beng Mealea - 70kms East. One of the more remote temples still largely unrecovered from the jungle. (Pay locally on arrival $10 entrance fee.)
Ko Ker:- 120kms (Can easily be combined with Beng Mealea for a day trip) Unusual pyramid style, more in keeping with the Mayan tradition. Very few visitors, and spectacular views from the top. (A new staircase has just been installed). Same ticket as Beng Mealea, $10
*Passes must be obtained from the main ticket office in the main group prior to entry. They are charged by the day, three days in a week, or seven days in a month. (Khmer people get in free) If you buy your pass after 5PM for the next day, you get that evening free. Beng Mealea and Koh Ker can be accessed on a separate ticket $10 for the day.
Other spots for sunset are Pre Rup*, or heading off to Phnom Krom* 12 kms South.
Phnom Krom is a lovely evening Tuk Tuk trip to the lake taking around 30 minutes from Siem Reap. It is then a 25 minute easy climb giving spectacular views of the lake below. Proceed through the monastery at the top to the temple (Average) The sun sets behind and sinks into the lake. You may well have sunset to yourself. Beware of the monk en route collecting money for the building of a toilet for tourists. No sign of it yet but he always has a few Riel for a smoke!
The sunrise spot is Angkor Wat itself. Most sunrisers head back for breakfast straight after sunrise. If you stay you should have the temples largely to yourself between 06.30 and 08.30 when the tour busses arrive.
Always expect the unexpected in Cambodia, patience and a good sense of humour are great assets.
Social Issues
Please do not give cash to the children who come around begging, or selling postcards, flowers etc. Should you wish to help you could visit the offices of ConCERT, (Connecting Communities, Environment & Responsible Tourism) http://www.concertcambodia.org where you will have the chance to chat about the issues related to poverty and tourism in Cambodia. There is plenty of information available in the office, including activities that benefit local NGOs. The office is open from Monday to Friday, 9.a.m. to 5 p.m.
Eating
Restaurants come and go with the seasons, pick up the local free guide (Canby) from any hotel or ask your concierge for recommendations as to what is hot or not on the scene currently. Romdeng from Phnom Penh has now opened a branch in Siem Reap. Called Marum it specialises in traditional local foods, (some not for the squeamish) run by a local NGO the profits support street kids. Embassy now offers a full Khmer seven course gourmet menu.
Go really local on a picnic. (Street Food)
There is nothing the Khmer enjoy more on a Sunday than to head out of town to a picnic area. This is very much ‘pop up food’ picking your meal from the street stalls, rice comes in a small plastic bag, (you eat your hands) and beer from a jug. Ask for more details from your hotel concierge.
What to eat?
Khmer food is largely rice, fish, noodles and curries flavoured with herbs and spices, with a bottle of chilli sauce served to the side. This makes it uniquely flavoured, concentrating on flavour rather than heat. Beware its addictive. (A Khmer cookbook makes a great souvenir, as oddly most ingredients can be purchased from any good Chinese deli in the UK.)
Loc Lak: Meat, served with a fried egg and a pepper and lime dipping sauce. (Quality varies dramatically depending on the meat used.)
Amok: Fish or Chicken in a coconut sauce, often served in the coconut.
Laab: Minced beef (or Chicken) cooked with lime juice and traditionally served with roasted rice.
Cambodian Volcano/BBQ: Served throughout the town, very popular with locals. It consists of your own personal BBQ presented with red hot coals inside and a lump of lard on the top. You delicately spread the lard over the centre part, remove, and begin frying the meat that is served alongside. This usually comes with a selection of vegetables which are to be boiled in the broth provided which sits around the side of the volcano. It’s a fun DIY experience. Available all over town and at the old market.
Negotiating with the Khmer
Please be aware that in Cambodia there is a 'thing' about loss of face. So if you ask a question you will be met by a smile and a YES (Nobody likes to say no!) This may mean I understand or it may also mean that I would like to help, but I haven't a clue what you are talking about. When hiring a tuc tuc this can often be amusing, in a restaurant when you have an allergy it becomes far more serious.
Get concierge to write out any particular dietary request in Khmer and present to the waiter with a smile. This is fine of course providing he can read............
Other to do’s
Tonle Sap
Totally unique lake which expands up to five times its size by the end of the rainy season. The effect of this is to reverse the flow of the local river during monsoon season, an event greatly celebrated in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh at the Bomn Om Touk festival in November. If you can get out as far as
Kampong Khleang, 35 kms East of Siem Reap, you will find a remarkable village with stilited homes built up to 10 meters off the ground. During the wet season the lake laps almost to the front door, in the dry the homes are suspended in mid air like a wooden Manhatten. Surreal. There are many half day out to the lake for a small cruise, really a must see.
Birdwatching
Twitchers will be in heaven here. Many trips available, with the best through the Sam Veasna Centre. Enquire about Ang Traeng Thmor (for the Sarius Crane) in season the horizon tuns pink with the colour of the birds.
Phare
The Cambodian Circus. Cirque du Soleil Khmer style. Simply the best show in town. 10 minutes in a tuc tuc from the Old Market. Buy tickets in advance, this now sells out.
This collection has been put together from personal experience and feedback.
Park Hyatt
Formerly the De La Paix this stylish property is within an easy walk of the Old Market and Pub Street, (The entertainment centre). Designed in the fashion of a Khmer temple with unique local touches. This choice is the most authentic to local culture and taste. Recently refurbished but still oozes style. ££££
Belmond La Residence d’Angkor (Newly refurbished)
http://www.belmond.com/la-residence-d-angkor-siem-reap/
About a ten minute walk from the Old Town, this riverside choice offers large rooms in an Indonesian style. Huge bathtubs are very welcome in this heat. Al Fresco dining, and an open plan upstairs bar collect what little breeze there is, and can make a nice cool spot in the evening. I have yet to revisit [post the refurb.)
££££
Heritage Suites
https://www.heritagesuiteshotel.com/en/
Small, but very well thought out, and good value against other choices at this level, especially at suite level. It is located a tuc tuc ride away from the Old Market and boasts a unique tours programme.
£££
Shinta Mani (Not personally visited)
http://shintamani.com/resort/
This very well priced choice is now sitting at No 1 on Trip Advisor, so it must me doing something right. I consistently hear of its awards and community contributions.
££££
Navutu Dreams (Not personally visited)
http://navutudreams.com/
Lovingly managed by a well respected colleague from my NGO days, this is a new, Mr and Mrs Smith approved, boutique resort and wellness retreat. A top choice if you are looking for a health programme. A little way out of town.
£££
Phum Bairang
http://phumbaitang.com/
New luxury resort by Zenner designed along the style of a traditional Khmer village. Spacious and very relaxed away from the increasingly busy town. It even grows its own rice and has its own in house water buffalo. Top end luxury in a veru unique concept. Noted Spa.
£££££
Viroths
https://www.viroth-hotel.com/?width=1280&height=1024
If you can possibly conceive of a budget luxury hotel this is it. Superb service and well located just on the other side of the Siem Reap river. Walking distance to town. Great pool, good sized rooms. Look out for the pet cat who enjoys random room inspections. Good tours and excellent drivers.
££
Jaya House (Not personally visited)
http://www.jayahouseriverparksiemreap.com/home
Been getting great reviews here,
££
Temples
The main tours quiet rightly concentrate on the big three
Angkor Wat*:- The main one.
Bayon*:- (In the Angkor Thom group):-Intricate carvings of faces from the past
Ta Prohm* :- Mostly in ruins overgrown by trees. A major film set.
These are covered by most tours in a hot exhausting day which then finishes with a climb up Bakheng* for sunset (Ludicrously overcrowded.)
Others worth doing are
Preah Khan* - In the main temple area, but missed by the main tour groups
Neak Pean* - Unusual and located on its own island, far from the madding crowd.
Bakong* (In the Roluos Group) - 13kms East. Smaller but next to a working Buddhist monastery and a river. Unusually easy to climb.
Banteay Srei* - 32kms North. Although small this is one of the most extraordinary temples in Cambodia. Intricate carvings made in pink stone. (This can make a nice half day in a Tuk Tuk, going through some traditional Khmer villages.)
Beng Mealea - 70kms East. One of the more remote temples still largely unrecovered from the jungle. (Pay locally on arrival $10 entrance fee.)
Ko Ker:- 120kms (Can easily be combined with Beng Mealea for a day trip) Unusual pyramid style, more in keeping with the Mayan tradition. Very few visitors, and spectacular views from the top. (A new staircase has just been installed). Same ticket as Beng Mealea, $10
*Passes must be obtained from the main ticket office in the main group prior to entry. They are charged by the day, three days in a week, or seven days in a month. (Khmer people get in free) If you buy your pass after 5PM for the next day, you get that evening free. Beng Mealea and Koh Ker can be accessed on a separate ticket $10 for the day.
Other spots for sunset are Pre Rup*, or heading off to Phnom Krom* 12 kms South.
Phnom Krom is a lovely evening Tuk Tuk trip to the lake taking around 30 minutes from Siem Reap. It is then a 25 minute easy climb giving spectacular views of the lake below. Proceed through the monastery at the top to the temple (Average) The sun sets behind and sinks into the lake. You may well have sunset to yourself. Beware of the monk en route collecting money for the building of a toilet for tourists. No sign of it yet but he always has a few Riel for a smoke!
The sunrise spot is Angkor Wat itself. Most sunrisers head back for breakfast straight after sunrise. If you stay you should have the temples largely to yourself between 06.30 and 08.30 when the tour busses arrive.
Always expect the unexpected in Cambodia, patience and a good sense of humour are great assets.
Social Issues
Please do not give cash to the children who come around begging, or selling postcards, flowers etc. Should you wish to help you could visit the offices of ConCERT, (Connecting Communities, Environment & Responsible Tourism) http://www.concertcambodia.org where you will have the chance to chat about the issues related to poverty and tourism in Cambodia. There is plenty of information available in the office, including activities that benefit local NGOs. The office is open from Monday to Friday, 9.a.m. to 5 p.m.
Eating
Restaurants come and go with the seasons, pick up the local free guide (Canby) from any hotel or ask your concierge for recommendations as to what is hot or not on the scene currently. Romdeng from Phnom Penh has now opened a branch in Siem Reap. Called Marum it specialises in traditional local foods, (some not for the squeamish) run by a local NGO the profits support street kids. Embassy now offers a full Khmer seven course gourmet menu.
Go really local on a picnic. (Street Food)
There is nothing the Khmer enjoy more on a Sunday than to head out of town to a picnic area. This is very much ‘pop up food’ picking your meal from the street stalls, rice comes in a small plastic bag, (you eat your hands) and beer from a jug. Ask for more details from your hotel concierge.
What to eat?
Khmer food is largely rice, fish, noodles and curries flavoured with herbs and spices, with a bottle of chilli sauce served to the side. This makes it uniquely flavoured, concentrating on flavour rather than heat. Beware its addictive. (A Khmer cookbook makes a great souvenir, as oddly most ingredients can be purchased from any good Chinese deli in the UK.)
Loc Lak: Meat, served with a fried egg and a pepper and lime dipping sauce. (Quality varies dramatically depending on the meat used.)
Amok: Fish or Chicken in a coconut sauce, often served in the coconut.
Laab: Minced beef (or Chicken) cooked with lime juice and traditionally served with roasted rice.
Cambodian Volcano/BBQ: Served throughout the town, very popular with locals. It consists of your own personal BBQ presented with red hot coals inside and a lump of lard on the top. You delicately spread the lard over the centre part, remove, and begin frying the meat that is served alongside. This usually comes with a selection of vegetables which are to be boiled in the broth provided which sits around the side of the volcano. It’s a fun DIY experience. Available all over town and at the old market.
Negotiating with the Khmer
Please be aware that in Cambodia there is a 'thing' about loss of face. So if you ask a question you will be met by a smile and a YES (Nobody likes to say no!) This may mean I understand or it may also mean that I would like to help, but I haven't a clue what you are talking about. When hiring a tuc tuc this can often be amusing, in a restaurant when you have an allergy it becomes far more serious.
Get concierge to write out any particular dietary request in Khmer and present to the waiter with a smile. This is fine of course providing he can read............
Other to do’s
Tonle Sap
Totally unique lake which expands up to five times its size by the end of the rainy season. The effect of this is to reverse the flow of the local river during monsoon season, an event greatly celebrated in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh at the Bomn Om Touk festival in November. If you can get out as far as
Kampong Khleang, 35 kms East of Siem Reap, you will find a remarkable village with stilited homes built up to 10 meters off the ground. During the wet season the lake laps almost to the front door, in the dry the homes are suspended in mid air like a wooden Manhatten. Surreal. There are many half day out to the lake for a small cruise, really a must see.
Birdwatching
Twitchers will be in heaven here. Many trips available, with the best through the Sam Veasna Centre. Enquire about Ang Traeng Thmor (for the Sarius Crane) in season the horizon tuns pink with the colour of the birds.
Phare
The Cambodian Circus. Cirque du Soleil Khmer style. Simply the best show in town. 10 minutes in a tuc tuc from the Old Market. Buy tickets in advance, this now sells out.
Introducing Siem Reap Ride
I have finally decided to become a family sponsor back in Siem Reap with the lovely Community Support Association, run by my good freind Rathany and based just outside the town. Read about their latest project here.
Further Vounteering thoughts from the BBC
This is a worthwhile read if you know someone thinking of volunteering abroad. Click here.
Al Jazeera comment on Cambodian volunteering situation: Does it really help?
A very good commentary on the current situation in Cambodia with regard to volunteering, especially with orphanages has been transmitted by the Al Jazeera network. Click here to view.
All Inclusive-Think before you book! Read this article:
http://www.tourismconcern.org.uk/all-inclusive-holidays---excluding-local-people.html
Top Ten hotels with a Heart.
Looking for somewhere to stay, these are the recent award winners
http://af.reuters.com/article/moroccoNews/idAFLDE74Q19D20110527?pageNumber=1&virtualBrandChannel=0
http://af.reuters.com/article/moroccoNews/idAFLDE74Q19D20110527?pageNumber=1&virtualBrandChannel=0
Positive Programming
Once again Australian television makes a positive report on some of the great work going on in Cambodia. This piece features Anthony and Fiona owners of both The Villa and Sojourn in Siem Reap and the contribution they make to the surrounding villages.
Volunteering in Cambodia?
This is essential viewing.http://english.aljazeera.net/programmes/101east/2011/02/2011210123057338995.html. It raises many good points. See below for a summery of points raised and my comments accordingly.
If you are coming do bear these points in mind.
Is your money going direct to the NGO you are seeking to help?
There is now a whole industry building up in volunteer tourism, and a lot of money is being made. Some of these organisations give as little as $50 per volunteer to the project it is purporting to help. You may have paid up to $3000 for the placement. It does not take a great deal of time to work out someone is making a lot of money here.
Are you really helping?
It depends what you are doing. If it is a three week teaching assignment, and you have no qualifications, you are not going to help, much the opposite in fact. You cannot become a teacher overnight. (A TEFL would really be a minimum requirement) Some volunteers come with friends on building projects, if you are a builder this can be particularly good, if not less so.
Where volunteers do help?
A long assignment training Khmer staff to do a good job, and letting them train the children brings stability and gives a Cambodian a job.
Are they really Orphans?
Quiet often not, I certainly came across cases where parents wanted us to take their children because we offered a better living standard. There were of course more genuine cases where the parents could not cope, severe illness is common as is alcoholism.
Street Projects
Here is a positive, there are some excellent street projects in hand that aim to help families as a whole, helping the parents cope with poverty, so they can look after their children in their own environment.
There is now a whole industry building up in volunteer tourism, and a lot of money is being made. Some of these organisations give as little as $50 per volunteer to the project it is purporting to help. You may have paid up to $3000 for the placement. It does not take a great deal of time to work out someone is making a lot of money here.
Are you really helping?
It depends what you are doing. If it is a three week teaching assignment, and you have no qualifications, you are not going to help, much the opposite in fact. You cannot become a teacher overnight. (A TEFL would really be a minimum requirement) Some volunteers come with friends on building projects, if you are a builder this can be particularly good, if not less so.
Where volunteers do help?
A long assignment training Khmer staff to do a good job, and letting them train the children brings stability and gives a Cambodian a job.
Are they really Orphans?
Quiet often not, I certainly came across cases where parents wanted us to take their children because we offered a better living standard. There were of course more genuine cases where the parents could not cope, severe illness is common as is alcoholism.
Street Projects
Here is a positive, there are some excellent street projects in hand that aim to help families as a whole, helping the parents cope with poverty, so they can look after their children in their own environment.